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Routes

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Grade Route

Set: W. Amann & L. Amann, 1982

Fantastic, partly quite exposed slab and dihedral climbing on solid, rough rock. The route leads across the edge just above the northern dihedral. Almost all protections have to be placed by yourself!

FA: P. Henrichs J. Boison, 1992

1 2 60m
2 3+ 25m
3 4 40m
4 4- 35m
5 4 40m
6 3- 15m
7 3 - 4- 50m

Most obvious line at the third Kirchlispitze. It follows a big dihedral on the right side of the north face.

  1. 60m (1-2) Starts not directly at the bottom of the dihedral. It can be climbed without a rope or you have to find the single bolt in the middle of the pitch to start belaying.

  2. 25m (3+) Where the fun starts. 25 meters within the dihedral. Slabs and 3 bolts on the left hand side.

  3. 40m (4) Leave the dihedral to the right to continue on slabs. One old piton after the stance, then 3 bolts. After the first bolt keep right.

  4. 35m (4-) From the stance head left again to start into the 4th pitch and to reach the bolts at the left side of the dihedral. Follow the dihedral underneath an overhung. 4 bolts and one piton.

  5. 40m (4) Either straight up the dihedral at a small overhung that has very good friction or to the right and leave the dihedral to follow a ramp to the next piton. On this 40 meters you will find just two pitons so be brave and watch out for good places to improve your pro. At the end of a slab just before an easy and loose sector you should find a third piton to build a belay anchor.

  6. 15m (3-) You do pitch 5 and this in one push. It's short and ends at a comfortable biwi spot (big cave). Just one glued bolt.

  7. 50m (3/4) Starts with the most steep part of the route (5m) with good cracks and holds. Then follow the ramp to the summit. On the left more difficult slab climbing (4-), on the right easier.

Descent

The descent is a serious issue. Plan enough time to not be in a hurry. The whole ridge to the main summit and the traverse in the south face are very loose and you have to watch every step.

  1. Most popular option is to head east and climb up the to ridge (1 pitch, 2-3, no pro). From the exit of 'Via Carbonara' follow the ridge to the main summit that is marked by a cross (3 pitches, 1-3, few slings and one bolt). Don't be surprised to spend an hour on the ridge.

  2. If the ridge is too scary for you, follow a traverse on the south side of the summit until you reach a single bolt (1 or 2 pitches, 1, very loose, few slings and pitons). From there slightly to the right and then a ramp to the left up to the ridge where you will find an equal bolt (1 or 2 pitches, 3-4). From there easy over the ridge to the main summit. Mind that you are exposed to rock fall if others choose option 1.

  3. Head west and follow a traverse on the south side of the summit until you reach the saddle between third and second Kirchlispitze. Then downhill on the north without trail. Be aware of snow fields and very loose rock, with a vertical drop off below. This is probably the most dangerous option and not recommended.

  4. Safest option is to rappel over the route. Because of possible rock fall this is not recommended if other rope teams are in the route below you (5x45m).

  5. Rumour has it that you can abseil down the south side (return via Gafalljoch). Further information welcome.

To descent from the main summit follow the trail on the east side. Easy but steep hiking.

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