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Flora and Fauna: seasonal closing - bird sanctuary

en:
to protect breeding birds, the routes from Röhrlsalat to Euphoria are closed from Jan, 1st to July, 15th!

for details and a TOPO-picture of the affected area see the alpine club's site seasonal closed areas

de:
zum Schutz der Brutvögel gilt das alljährliche Kletterbereich im Bereich von Röhrsalat bis Euphoria (und natürlich alles dazwischen) von 1.1.–15.7.!

Details auf der AV-Seite Saisonales Kletterverbot an der roten Wand

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago
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Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Mixnitz

Some crags (Schwaigerkamm, Brunntal) can only be accessed through the Bärenschützklamm, a gorge with a steep track. It's only opened from 1 May to 31 October, and there is a fee of about €5 for entering the gorge.

Due to a rockfall in 2020 the Bärenschützklamm remains closed for 2022 for renovation work! (see forum entry Bärenschützklamm closed for details and updates)

Approach

  • there is a designated parking lot in this area. Satnav know the place Rote Wand Parkplatz.
  • from 2022 this parking lot is with costs! see climbing.plus-update for details or this entry with pictures
  • if you come from Murtal leave the S35 in Frohnleiten, using the B65 to Passail/Teichalm/Weiz -- in Schrems turn left heading to Tyrnau -- after 7km there's is signs indicating the parking lot left hand. Follow the signs up the hill.
  • from the parking lot there is a signposted path up to the wall, about 1.5km, 300m height difference
  • the mountain Rote Wand is also a hiking area, there are several ways to also get there by foot during a hike. Hiking way nr. 748 passes beneath the crag.

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Areas

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Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Dacapo sector
11
3
75m

Routes

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Grade Route
1 7-/7 30m
2 6- 30m
3 7+ 40m
4 6+ 35m
5 6+ 20m
6 7+ 45m

FA: G. Rosenberger & R. Prattes, 2001

1 5- 30m
2 4- 40m
3 2 20m
4 3+ 35m
5 4+ 25m
6 5+ 35m
7 3+ 45m

FA: F. Horich & M. Poleschinski, 1982

1 6- 30m
2 6+ 35m
3 6+ 45m
4 4 35m
5 6+ 35m
6 2 30m

A great, if adventurous route with some fantastic exposure on the 3rd pitch. The first two pitches are showing the signs of the routes popularity. Although the crux moves of each pitch are well protected with bolts, a set of nuts (and/or some tricams) help make the intervening runout sections less scary.

1 7 35m
2 7 30m
3 6 45m
4 6 40m
5 5- 35m
6 1 30m

FA: I. Schalk & G. Grabner, 1986

1 6 35m
2 5+ 40m
3 4- 35m
4 7- 50m
5 7- 50m
6 7 50m

FA: St. Lieb & H. Wagner, 1999

1 5+ 40m
2 3+ 30m
3 4- 35m
4 4+ 20m
5 5+ 40m
6 6- 35m
7 5 45m

10-12 Expresschlingen

FA: F. Horich & M. Poleschinski, 1981

1 6-
2 6-
3 6-
4 4+
5 6
6 6+
7 7+
8 7+

FA: M. Ostermayer & P. Pesendorfer, 2011

1 3-
2 2+
3 3-
4 2+
5 3
6 3+
7 3

FA: H. Robert, 2013

1 6- 25m
2 6- 45m
3 6- 30m
4 6 40m
5 6- 45m
6 5 40m
7 6 25m
8 6 20m

FA: G. Grabner & P. Schwald, 1999

1 5+ 45m
2 5+ 40m
3 6+ 45m
4 6- 25m
5 6 30m
6 7- 35m
7 6+ 40m
8 7- 40m

FA: G. Rosenberger & R. Prattes, 2000

1 5- 45m
2 3+ 30m
3 4- 25m
4 3+ 30m
5 4+ 35m
6 6- 30m
7 6 40m
8 6 45m

Aternativaustieg: Pichleraustieg 6+

FA: F. Horich, Peter, M. Poleschinski & Zmugg, 1981

1 7+ 50m
2 4- 35m
3 3+ 30m
4 7- 25m
5 8- 25m
6 7 30m
7 8- 45m

FA: I. Schalk, M. Sprenger & Dirnbauer, 1997

1 6- 25m
2 6+ 35m
3 5 30m
4 7- 30m
5 1 25m
6 6 35m
7 6+ 35m
8 7 30m
9 6+ 25m

FA: G. Rosenberger & R. Prattes, 2003

1 5 25m
2 7- 40m
3 6 20m
4 6+ 25m
5 6+/7- 45m
6 7 35m
7 7- 30m
8 7- 40m

FA: R. Prattes & G. Rosenberger, 2006

1 7- 35m
2 6+ 35m
3 6- 40m
4 5+ 25m
5 5 25m
6 6+ 30m
7 7- 30m
8 6- 30m

FA: I. Schalk & Wagner, 1989

1 6+ 40m
2 6 40m
3 7- 20m
4 7 45m
5 6- 30m
6 7- 40m
7 5- 15m

FA: G. Grabner & P. Schwald, 1992

1 7-/7 30m
2 7+ 40m
3 7 35m
4 6- 15m

FA: G. Grabner & T. Richter, 2000

1 7- 30m
2 6+/7- 50m
3 7+ 40m
4 1 15m

FA: G. Grabner, M. Rust & H. Rust, 2004

1 4+ 35m
2 4 25m
3 5 40m
4 5 30m
5 4 30m
6 3 45m
7 6- 30m
8 6 35m

FA: F. Horich, E. Fleck & O. Peter, 1979

1 5+ 25m
2 6 25m
3 7- 35m
4 6+ 40m
5 3 35m
6 6- 45m

FA: Bregar & Zisser, 1991

1 6 45m
2 8- 20m
3 7 20m
4 7 30m

FA: T. Richter & G. Grabner, 1998

1 6+ 45m
2 6+ 35m
3 7/7+ 25m
4 7/7+ 30m

FA: M. Regenfalder & St. Lieb, 2003

1 7- 40m
2 7- 40m
3 7 40m
4 5

FA: G. Grabner & I. Schalk, 1994

1 5+ 45m
2 7 30m
3 5+ 30m
4 7- 35m
5 5+ 45m
6 5+ 45m

FA: G. Rosenberger & R. Prattes, 2005

1 4 30m
2 5- 25m
3 6- 35m
4 5+ 45m
5 4+ 30m
6 5- 45m
7 5- 50m
8 6- 40m
9 1 40m

FA: G. Grabner & S. Kühnelt, 1987

FA: F. Horich & E. Fleck, 1993

1 6- 40m
2 4- 45m
3 5 35m
4 6- 25m
5 5+ 35m
6 5 20m
7 6+ 30m
8 A2 25m
9 7+ 35m
10 4+ 35m
11 7-

FA: W. Divjak, 1992

1 4+
2 6

Alternative zu den letzen 4 Seillängen des Tintenstrichs

1 6- 40m
2 5+ 25m
3 5 40m
4 5 25m
5 5+ 40m
6 5- 45m
7 5- 25m
8 6 40m
9 3 15m

FA: F. Horich & M. Buchroithner, 1992

Set: M. Ostermayer, 2003

1 7+ 45m
2 7+/8- 40m
3 7 45m
4 6+ 45m

FA: M. Ostermayer, 1999

1 4- 40m
2 5+ 40m
3 1 15m
4 6 35m
5 4- 45m
6 5- 35m

FA: G. Grabner & P. Schwald, 1984

Set: M. Ostermayer, 1999

1 6- 40m
2 3 30m
3 6- 50m
4 7 45m
5 6+ 40m

FA: M. Ostermayer & V. Wöhry, 1999

1 6- 40m
2 3 40m
3 4- 20m
4 5 30m
5 4 30m
6 5- 30m
7 45m

FA: F. Horich & E. Fleck, 1993

FA: M. Ostermayer, 2006

1 5 30m
2 6 35m
3 1 40m

FA: F. Horich & E. Fleck, 1993

1 2
2 4
3 5
4 3
5 1
6 1 - 2

FA: M. Ostermayer & V. Wöhry, 1999

1 4 20m
2 6 40m
3 5 40m
4 2 15m

FA: G. Grabner & Schreiber, 1989

  • TOPO.png and pictures on bergsteigen.com
  • no signs lead you there, the comments on the site mentioned above give a good description how to find it
  • the bolting is not state of the art, be aware of that (as mentioned in this tour report)

  • originally built in 1987

  • hase been closed from 2011, due to rockfall (steel ropes have been removed out of safety reasons)
  • in 2017 re-established

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