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Stadlwand

2
UIAA
5+6

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
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D

Description

The classic crag of this area. A 450m high, SE exposed limestone cliff.

Approach

From the Stadlwandgraben parking lot (limited parking for up to ten cars) along the path up the ditch (i.e. Stadlwandgraben). After roughly 30min the cliff can be firts seen. Do not head up the first scree afterwards but continue for about 10 more minutes up the dicht to the third scree after first seeing the cliff. For routes in the lower and middle third of the cliff, head to the cliff and up the scree. For routes in the upper tird of the cliff, continue up on the path for six switchbacks and the head to the cliff over the scree.

History

View historical timeline

This crag has been climbed for over 100 years.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 4- 45m
2 5 40m
3 1- 30m
4 3 10m
5 4- 35m
6 4- 35m
7 2+ 25m
8 4 20m
9 5- 25m
10 5+ 25m
11 4- 45m
12 3 40m
1 4+ 30m
2 6- 30m
3 4 40m
4 5 30m
5 4 30m
6 4 40m
7 5 35m
8 4+ 40m
9 5+ 25m
10 6 25m

Following a prominent line in the upper third of the Stadlwand, this nearly forgotten route has become a popular climb since its restoration in 2002. The climb itself is varied an very well bolted. The crux moves can all be climbed A0, lowering the obligatory grade to UIAA 5. The rock is mostly very good, although some pitches do have their fare share of loose rock.

Descent: BEWARE! At the start of the descent you first have to scramble uphill through steep and pathless forest. The ground is not allways 100% solid (loose rocks, take care because of climbers on the cliff below). Afterwards you reach a path that leads back to the parking lot.

Original first ascent: K.H. Richter and Friends 1929 First ascent direct line: R. reidinger 1958; I. Gruber 1975 Restoration and first ascent of new direct line: R. Melchart and Ch. Faltin 2002

FA: R. Melchart & Ch. Faltin, 2002

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Activity

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