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Blagaj

Seasonality

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F
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Description

This relatively new climbing area quickly rose to become one of the biggest, most beautiful and most diverse climbing area of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It is located on the edge of the cosy village of Blagaj, not far from the spring of Buna, a high volume icy stream that emerges straight out of the bottom of a 200m rock face. Directly next to the spring, nested under the rocks is the Tekke Blagaj, a dervish monastery from the 16th century which is part of the UNESCO world cultural heritage.

Blagaj's geographical location, pleasant climate and sector orientation made it possible for the Blagaj climbing season to last almost all year. The French Scale is used to evaluate the directions - Types of directions that will satisfy all climbers from old school boards with small shelves that require maximum precision fine-tuned footwork, to totally modern athletics in extremely overhanging directions. The Rebro and Šube sectors are in position that they can climb all year. The sectors Pejotl (A), Pčelinjak (B), Ljut(C), Crvena stijena (D), Duga peć, Karantena and Vučije točilo are great for winter, since they are mostly in the sun and if the wind is not too strong you will climb in a T-shirt. During summer, it gets unbearably hot after 10 a.m. in these sectors. Then you can move on to the canyon sectors Hladovina, Publika and Ispod-Vodopanac who usually have a bit of wind and offer different orientations that provides shade. If you are still too hot you can go and visit nearby Tekke and Buna spring to cool off. It is probably one of the coldest waters you will ever swim in.

Characteristics of the rocks and climbing routes on the climbing site in Blagaj:

  • The climbing site in Blagaj occupies a rather large geographic area of some 2.5 kilometers in length
  • The limestone is of exceptional quality due to the geological image of the terrain and the pleasant climate.
  • The variety of angles and length of the individual sectors have enabled Blagaj to have all kinds of routes: from the least difficult ones to the ones used by the top climbers.
  • The length of the routes goes from 15 metres to the sports multi-pitches of 200 metres.
  • There are about 140 routes, the level of difficulty goes from 3 to the potential 8
  • You need to carry 15 quickdraws and 70 m rope.

Approach

🚗 Drive from Mostar towards Stolac, and after 6 km at the shopping mall FIS, turn left towards Nevesinje. Drive straight for the next 2km and at the crossroad keep driving straight towards Blagaj. Continue on the main road for the next 4 km and turn right just before the mosque. Cross the small bridge and turn left immediately after, follow the dirt road all the way to Eco centar Blagaj where you can park.

🚶‍♂️ To approach the sectors, follow the marked paths. Sector Rebro can be approached also from the other side via dirt road that goes to the Old town Blagaj.

To approach the sectors in the Vulin potok canyon (Vučije točilo, Publika, Šube, Hladovina, Ispod-Vodopanac) you need a proper Via ferrata set.

History

History timeline chart

Developing of climbing crag in Blagaj start with the arrival of Salih Mulaosmanović and his living here for almost 4 years. The first climbing routes have been equipped in the autumn of 2014 along with the construction of the artificial rock of the New Wave Youth Club, which is part of the Eco Center Blagaj. The Eco Center itself is really the starting point for the development of the climbing in Blagaj. The first climbing routes have been equipped, which resulted in the involvement of other locals in the climbing activity. Many of them felt the charm of sport climbing for the first time. This has caused mutual understanding of the terrain observation, and in winter of 2014-2015, the sector of the Red Rock opens with the help of the French climber Quentin Chastagnier, and the approaches to the sectors that will be equipped in the future are being fitted.

In the spring of 2015, the first bolting weekend in Blagaj was organized, which resulted in the arrival of climbers from all parts of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the discovery of this true climbing paradise. During the bolting weekend, the cooperation between Mostar climbers led by Vedran Ugljen and the members of the climbing association Željezničar Sarajevo was achieved, which greatly facilitated the development of the climbing scene in this part of Bosnia and Herzegovina and the climbing site itself.

Vedran Ugljen with the assistance of local climbers fits the first sports multi-pitch in Blagaj. In autumn of 2015 Blagaj is visited by one of the world’s biggest climbing legends Silvo Karo, and new sector Ljut is opened. The complexity of the terrain on the climbing site requires a really painstaking work on making access to the sectors. In winter 2015-2016 the Via Ferrata was completed through the canyon of Vulin Potok, which has the greatest climbing potential on the climbing site itself. The construction of Via Ferrata Vulin Potok can really be called community service because a large number of local people are involved in various ways. All the work is done by Salih Mulaosmanović with the help of Ibrahim Balalić and Nedžad Klepo in the logistics.

In the spring of 2016, a new sector Rebro opens, followed by the equipping of the first multi-pitches. In the summer of 2016 a new sector Duga Peć opens. The construction of the necessary branches of the ferrata follows, and in the spring of 2017 the third bolting weekend is organized. New sectors are opened: Publika, Hladovina, Ispod-Vodopanac. Preparatory work is being done on the new ferrata branches, opening of the two best-performing sectors on the Vučije točilo and sector Šube.

The exits of the ferrata of the section Vučije točilo and Šube were made in winter 2018 linking the canyon of Vulin Potok, its middle and exit cliffs. This bordered the planned area. In spring 2018, the fourth bolting weekend was organised. During that weekend, members of the Climbing club Extreme, ASCC Neretva and SCC Blagaj open the upper part of the sector Vučije točilo, and Vedran Ugljen finishes up equipping multi-pitch on the right side of the canyon Polumaraton. The equipping of this route has begun a year earlier together with Ibrahim Balalić. A little later, Salih Mulaosmanović starts equipping the first overhang atletic multi-pitch in this part of B&H, drilling the Ihsan route to the top of the Šube sector. Besides many climbers who equipped sectors, we have to mention Wanja Reichl. He fell in love with Blagaj where he stayed for a while. He equipped couple of routes on sectors Šube and Vučije točilo. The time Wanja spent in Blagaj had a significant influence on local climbers and the development of climbing crag.

The engagement of local people about the idea of making a climbing site resulted in the founding of Rock climbing club Blagaj, which takes cares of the climbing area.

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