West Face of Totem

  • Grade context: BRZ
  • Ascents: 5



Access issues inherited from Pão de Açúcar

Hike in on track. Free cable car ride down to all climbers of Sugarloaf to the first stop where you can walk down the trail. The second length of the cable car is free after 9pm.



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Grade Route

The chimney that runs up the left side of the Totem formation on the south face of Pao de Acucar.

Route is bolted but only sparsely (no more than 3 to 4 bolts per pitch). Sometimes hard to see/find them, so good route finding skills are necessary, although it's mostly straight forward. At 3rd belay station make sure to go right from the ledge/tree. To the left is a variant graded at 5o A1 in the Brazilian grade system.

  1. 1st pitch (30m): 3 bolts on slab and belay from single bolt on ledge.

  2. 2nd pitch (50m): Slightly left to tree, then ledge, up chimney with one bolt, then ledge and another chimney with 2 bolts and then below from ledge on DBB.

  3. 3rd pitch (40m): Continue up chimney with one bolt, then past roof and ledge with there is a DBB, continue up passing trees to get to bigger ledge (salão azul) and below from tree.

  4. 4th pitch (40m): Walk right towards the end of the ledge and up past a small ledge with one bolt, some loose rocks and tight chimney to get a single bolt.

  5. 5th pitch (40m): Up chimney with 3 bolts to get to DBB at the end.

  6. 6th pitch (20m): Up past 3 bolts to get to DBB.

  7. 7th pitch (20m): Left and up past 3 bolts to reach DBB. 50m walk to summit.

FA: Rolf Vegelle, Silvio Mendes & Guido Vegelle, 1944

Starts from Largatão, crossing left to reach the west face of the Toten.

Take a full rack of cams and stoppers.

Up the ramp that goes to "Chaminé Stop". Belay from the bolt on ledge, after passing 3 bolts and 25m. 10 bolts to DBB.

Mixed climb (trad on 2nd pitch). Continues from "Limiar das Lacas" going right, left and then right again to reach the latter part of "Limiar da Loucura".

Take small to medium cams and stoppers.

Goes left after first pitch of "As Lacas Também Amam".

Revolta is a stunning and very steep, sustained flaring thin crack. The route is on the west face of the Totem. The views are spectacular with engaging and technical climbing. The crux is right at the end, and is unprotectable for 2-3 meters until the chains.

Starts from end of "As Lacas Também Amam" making for an 8-10 pitch route but there are other options. Walk left through vegetation and slightly up to ledge where you'll find double bolts for the belay. Pretty much straight up from there.

Take nuts, double cams from #0.3 (blue) to #2 (yellow) camalot, draws and slings.

Starts from end of "Revolta dos Gravatás". Abseil 20m to ledge on the left. Quite exposed.

Starts from base, just before ramp that goes to Chaminé Stop. Diagonally left.

Starts from 2nd bolt on slab that takes you to "Chaminé Stop" and joins "Cacoete" after 11 bolts

Most people only climb the first pitch (20m) as 2nd pitch is a grade III in the Brazilian system with quite an exposed traverse that takes you to "Lagartão". Starts a few meters to the left of "Cacoete".

Connects "Limiar da Loucura" and "Lagartão". Very exposed traverse.

Parallel to "As Lacas Também Amam".

Starts before the first belay station for "As Lacas Também Amam".

Aid climbing through roof towards the end of "Chaminé Stop".

This route an absolutely spectacular route with splitter cracks and technical face moves. On the north face of the Totem, which is on the south face of the Pao de Acucar.

It's actually a combination of several routes on the Totem formation that were established over the course of several years. Combination of "Sika em Frente" to "Limiar das Lacas" to "As Lacas Também Amam" to "Revolta dos Gravatas" to "Lagartao".

Need to abseil from the end of "Revolta dos Gravatás" to "A Um Passo do Espaço" (20m).

Take about 12 draws, including runners, and a single rack from a .3 to a #2 Camalot.


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