Routes in Urca for selected grade

Nice and a bit more exposed/run out than the "Via dos Italianos" or "Cavalo Louco".

1. Pitch 1: 45m;

2. Pitch 2: 45m;

3. Pitch 3: 25m;

4. Pitch 4: 35m;

5. Pitch 5: 40m;

6. Pitch 6: 40m;

Take 10 quickdraws. End of 2nd pitch is on the same ledge as CEPI.

Mixed. Take full rack of cams and stoppers. Starts to the right of the base of "Lagartão".

1. Pitch 1 (35m): Starts from ledge, up to next ledge on right then move left to get to the vertical crack. The bolts to the right are for the route "Cocoricó".

2. Pitch 2 (30m): Straight up. Most people don't do the second pitch as the grade lowers significantly to a IV in the Brazilian grade system.

Starts on the ledge where the aid climbing of Lagartão begins and finishes linking with Chaminé Gallotti. First and last pitches all on trad. Take a full rack of cams and stoppers. Abseiling is only possible using 2 ropes.

1. Pitch 1 (45m): Starts moving right from ledge And up crack to DBB at the end of crack.

2. Pitch 2 (25m): Straight up.

3. Pitch 3 (25m): Up, then left, coming back right to belay from ledge.

4. Pitch 4 (30m): Crux. Straight up to ledge.

5. Pitch 5 (25m): Easy horizontal to the right

6. Pitch 6 (20m): Easy horizontal to the right until you reach "Chaminé Gallotti".

Needs a couple of big pieces (#4 cams) and some smaller ones (1 and 1.5). Starts one bolt before the first ledge in "Chaminé Gallotti" and goes to "Variant Faro Fino".

First route on the face facing the track. DRBs at the top. It doesnt use the arête.

No bolts to lead on. Single ring bolt at the top.

Very nice!

Meets Urubu Rei a bit higher than Tentação

One of the nicest lines of Pedra do Urubu. Single ring bolt at the top.

Beautiful, proud arete in a stunning setting. Starts with a dynamic boulder problem into balancy and nerve fraying top out.