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Space Shuttle Tower Rock climbing 9 routes in cliff

Grade context: US
Photos: 12
Ascents: 6

YDS

5.2 5.4 5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c

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Description

Large rising tower on south end of the area. From the highway note the distinctive rifts crossing diagonally.

Access issues inherited from Cliff Temple Rock

It is directly behind a pagoda, be sensitive to the monks activities.

Approach

Option 1: ask a local to help you locate the road across the street from the public school to follow to the south end base, steep approach from the peoples backyards. Option 2: If approaching from the other climbing areas near the graveyard carefuly hike around the new summit temple to the rear (west side) of space shuttle tower. Flat, but sloped, belay area on south end of tower (the narrow face). Rapell down a few more meters to find a ledge to access the bottom of the climbs along the east side of the tower (wide face.) [Warning: East face in full sun almost all day, extremely hot.]

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Put up by the Japanese team led by Atido Ito

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Routes

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Easy slab to the left of the "cockpit". The top anchor can be accessed from above using another set of anchors bolted in the top of the rock (the scramble up the side is easy, but exposed). If you can hand jam its a much easier climb, if you can't it's still easy 😂

Just a little scramble into the cavity within the tower. Good spot for a cool off. Not hard to get into.

Not really a climb, but scramble up to access the anchor ledge for the sport climbs. Start in front of the cockpit, top the slab, can sling the horn for protection, and there is one bolt [unconfirmed] on the main cliff when you step over the gap.

No permanent anchor, sling the horn at the top of the slab on the left side of the space shuttle. Climb from the launch slab.

(#1 on the topo) Starting from the launch slab (the only sport climb to start here, though all the belaying is from here) follow the obvious line up to the left-most anchors. The climb is significantly harder if you stay to the right of the anchors, there are alot more features off to the left.

Anchors were placed at the bottom of the "launch slab" to safely access the starting ledge below and regain access to slab.

(#2 on topo) 99, The Right Stuff, and Predator all technically start from the treed ledge below, but can be started from the "launch slab". Shares anchor with The Right Stuff

(#3 on topo) 99, The Right Stuff, and Predator all technically start from the treed ledge below, but can be started from the "launch slab". Shares anchor with 99.

(#4 on topo) 99, The Right Stuff, and Predator all technically start from the treed ledge below, but can be started from the "launch slab". While 99 and The Right Stuff run closely paralell and share an anchor, Predator drifts to the right with largely run out bolts, presumably so placed because of the precarious rock. After the last bolt the climb is easy to the anchors at the very top of the tower. [Note: these anchors have not been inspected in nearly a decade, use with caution]