Routes in Cambodia

Similar start point to April and June, same top anchors as Upgrade. Climb the long spine going straight up to anchors. There is a small perch at the top where you can sit to set acnhors

Where the path in the cave turns left coming from the wooden stairs there is a small tower of rock. Victorius climbs up the left spine of it, Upgrade climbs up the face of it. Dusty slopers abound. Crux between last bolt and top anchors, the face begins to overhung just slightly. (Ground fall potential heading up to second bolt)

Similar start spot to April and Victorious. June is a less clear climb. Maybe it goes inside the narrow off width cave, maybe it doesn't. More beta required. Top anchors also unclear. Please add info if you have it.

Maybe a meter or so to the right of Daelim Dash. April, June, and Victorious all start pretty much in the same spot. Stay on the face to the left of the start. Top anchors clear. Possible off width fun if you stray off to the right into the narrow cave.

(#19) Pre clip the first bolt underneath the archway, around the middle. Jump to grab the natural bar and insert feet into the holes. Work your way out onto the face slightly to the right of the start (alternate: exit the arch more to the left for "The Bat Hold") once on the face stay to the right of the bolt line. from halfway up the face join "The Bat Hold" to the same anchors.

(#2 on topo) 99, The Right Stuff, and Predator all technically start from the treed ledge below, but can be started from the "launch slab". Shares anchor with The Right Stuff

Not really a climb, but scramble up to access the anchor ledge for the sport climbs. Start in front of the cockpit, top the slab, can sling the horn for protection, and there is one bolt [unconfirmed] on the main cliff when you step over the gap.

Large offwidth (a very thin person could fit in at the bottom) in a dihedral position, with a flat slightly overhanging wall on the left. The face to the right is vertical until halfway up the climb where there is a foot sized ledge and the left wall breaks back from overhung to slab and the offwidth widens out to a chimney to a very nice sloped ledge one body height from the top. Its a sort of layback/offwidth body jamming/face crimps/chimney. Lot's of ways to approach this one.

Honestly walking around would be a lot easier, but it's a fun little adventure to chimney straight up instead. Access chimney from the top of the white slab. There are big boulders wedged in space at intervals up the chimney which is what makes it comfortable to do without a rope.

A tight start between the two rocks. Stick clip the first bolt. Sustained difficulty makes this one a must climb. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Easy sport route up the front of the fin (thin part). Anchors are quite a bit below the top of the tower.

Easy slab to the left of the "cockpit". The top anchor can be accessed from above using another set of anchors bolted in the top of the rock (the scramble up the side is easy, but exposed). If you can hand jam its a much easier climb, if you can't it's still easy 😂

(#6 on topo) A fun climb with an easy walk off (if you prefer not to lower-off) the belay is a little bit steep, suggest tying off to the tree. The bolt line meanders just a bit, the real line goes fairly vertical the whole way, but the crux is easy to skip if you want an easy day by traversing along the ledge to the right.

The name literally means "good day" or "greetings" and named this because this climb is usually one of the first routes climbed when visiting the area for the first time. Climb the slab following the 3 drawn-out bolts to the anchor (23m) gradually traversing right. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Start on or near the left corner of the slab. Watch out for loose rock on this long slab climb. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia" [Name means "rice + pork", route name originally spelt "Buy-Siak-J-Rok"] [Update: the route has been bolted, unsure about bolt location or number]

Just a little scramble into the cavity within the tower. Good spot for a cool off. Not hard to get into.

Inside the cave, closest climb to the wooden stairs. Top anchors can be seen easily from the ground.

[The following is out of date] Start next to the small wooden house and tree. The crux of this climb is surely the start. Follow the 6 bolts to the anchor.

A popular route for beginners and seasoned climbers alike. Climb following the 6 bolts and gradually traversing left. Leave a directional on the 3rd or 4th bolt for safe top-roping. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia

Very obvious line on the boulder that juts out into the road. Cannot get to Phnom KomNob without passing by this beauty. Start low feet hands in crater at chest height. Step into crater with strong undercling in the top to move within reach of the crescent shape up to the left. Dyno option very cool, maybe harder than static move, but maybe not.

There are nice footholds, and general smeary slabs to go up the right side of the boulder. It's also the easiest way down, though it takes some nerve.

Located behind the tree. Anchor from the top Named "Rob's Rat Hole" because a small rat calls the hole midway up the climb it's home. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Gentle slab up the east side of the boulder. Accesible anchor at the top. There are hundreds of potential holds, but it is a challenge to find those that won't break off. Halfway up there is a great pocket for a rest, hands free if you stand in it.

(#1 on the topo) Starting from the launch slab (the only sport climb to start here, though all the belaying is from here) follow the obvious line up to the left-most anchors. The climb is significantly harder if you stay to the right of the anchors, there are alot more features off to the left.

Anchors were placed at the bottom of the "launch slab" to safely access the starting ledge below and regain access to slab.

I'm sure this could be a trad climb, there are plenty of features. On the back side (facing in to the mountain) towards the front end (west end) of the fin there are anchor bolts with rap rings accessed by climbing past the front end anchors almost to the top. I am told there is also a single bolt on the platform above those anchor bolts for safety to lean over and set the anchors. If the rest of the vegetation gets cleared off this could be a classic climb. Straight vertical with two ledges for rests, tufas, cracks, blank face climbing, it's a well rounded climn.

At the back end of the crack chimney up from the top of the wedged boulder to the tree to set an anchor. This is the easiest access to the top of the boulders.

To the far left of Duvel Sector there is a grade 4-5 scramble up to a series of cables bolted into the rock. Follow the cables all the way around the cliff top to the Evil Eyes sector, ending at Sunset Boulevard. There are at least 3 accesible anchor points to rappel down from, or return the way you came.

(#3 on topo) 99, The Right Stuff, and Predator all technically start from the treed ledge below, but can be started from the "launch slab". Shares anchor with 99.

When standing on the promontory furthest out going down the right side is a smooth nose like corner. Below the nose is a blocky roof with a few deep ledges. Climb really starts from the block about 10m off the ground, 21m ish from the top.

A classic 5.10! The line is pretty self explanatory, follow the 7 bolts to the anchor. You may just want to pull the rope and repeat this route once you did it the first time. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Straight up the face of the No More Monks rock. A long sustained difficult climb. (In Khmer this climb name means "no more monk".) - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia" [Note: This may now be a sport route]

Shares anchor with 7-1, 7-3.

(#16) Starting just to the left of the cleft opening to the outside of the cave (in the northern wall) overhanging and fairly featurless. Uses same anchor as Secret of the Golden Flower.

A very easy climb immediately behind the shrine at the top of the cemetary. [At last check bolts were missing, assigned grade is probably a bit high but route has not been repeated in recent memory]

Start the same as Seam Rorns sport route: in the makeshift cafe with tarp rood. So... can't really climb this one. Follow sharp tufa-esqu limestone edge. Top unknown.

Belay from the little slab at the base of the cliff, climb is characterized by pockets made from the sandstone layers. At the 4th clip there’s a large cave to the left, avoid it as some of the hermits live in there at times. Slightly run out between clips 3-4 because of the layers. Can cheat the crux by following the crack up to the right and traversing back over along the top to the anchors.

To the right of 2-1. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-3.

Unknown height. Can be belayed from the ground or the ledge under the rood (that would remove 5ish meters). On the right side of the square where the ledge continues out of the square. Either dihedral face climb to the roof then hand? crack out, or climb the arete direcctly to the edge of the roof. Hand crack up from the roof.

Start just to the right of "Chicken in the kitchen" and stay right of the line with bolts.Top rope this climb until it's bolted from the "chicken in the kitchen" anchor. (Lots of rope drag, you'll get a workout.) - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Shares anchor with 7-1, 7-2.

(#17) Getting off the ground is the hard part of this climb, the rest is pretty easy. Start at the far left end of the western wall above the archway, the anchors are on the ledge halfway up the wall. Accessable if you walk up the side outside the cave.

(#2 on the topo) Furthest anchors in towards the U shape in the rock face.

The wide side of the shark fin is a very light slab, nearly vertical. Very esthetically pleasing route, not very hard but a little scary: partly because the gear is very old and looks bad, partly because it's pretty run out. Could be a classic route.

Start with hands on the face, feet under the overhang. Crimp up to the slopey pockets. In the deep pocket be prepared to have 1000 ants on you within seconds, can switch grip in the ant pocket to undercling. Top out on big jug in between the two anchor bolts.

To the right of 2-2. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-2.

Same as Sunset roof right but climb the arrete to avoid the roof.

Start in front of the big red barked tree. (For top rope recommend anchoring in the tree, actually, save your rope a lot of trouble). Big pocket on the right gets you of the ground, big pocket above your head gets you to the first bolt. Straight forward slopey stuff from there. Very bouldery route.

Start between Go Ban! and the Bat Hold, use the bolts from the Bat Hold and traverse over to use the anchors from Go Ban!. There are sort of half pipe like features in the rock, this one goes up the second half pipe from the left.

(#3 on the topo) In the tube like feature straight ahead when you enter the area. Good stemming warmup. Named for Seam Sarorn, one of Cambodia's foremost climbing instructors. [At last check bottom bolt was missing, preclip the upper bolt]

Climb to the southern anchor. Really green and slippery on account of the water trickle here that created a perfect cleft in the top of the rock, the downspout.

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-2, 3-3.

[Ethic warning, locals may not approve] This scramble provides access to the anchors of "Chicken in the Kitchen" and "Aht Lok". Enter the cave next to the home and start of "Chicken in the kitchen" climbing up and left to the top of the rock. The locals don't like us using this access because theuy believe that we disturb the spirits that live in the cave. If you do, however, use this access watch out for bees, and I suppose, spirits as well. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Same as Making it Work, but don’t avoid the crux like a sissy.

(#18) An interesting start and finish, easy middle. Jump start at the leftmost end of the arch, push your feet off the wall under the arch and stay to the left of the bolt line. The anchors are on the opposite wall (almost behind you as you get to the top) and require either quite a long reach, or quite a long run out to traverse around to them. Alternate start is fully under the archway.

Follow the old bolts (without hangers) straight up to the "Morning Glory" anchor. Top rope this route from "Morning Glory" anchors. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

To the right of the tube, use same anchors as Sarorn's Birthday. Climb up the sharp end of the little jutting out rock. [At last check bottom anchor was missing]

A nice layback crack almost the length of the route. Hits a teeny tiny roof one meter below the anchors.

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-1, 3-3.

No permanent anchor, sling the horn at the top of the slab on the left side of the space shuttle. Climb from the launch slab.

Unknown bolted route up the extremely overhung rock. Not sure if it has ever been ascended.

(#8 on the topo) After passing by the cave with the stair case ("Indiana Jones pass" on the map) first of four top-ropes up to the trail on to the wat at the peak. No other known details.

Short hand crack. 7 meters at most, but straight splitter. Haven't seen it up close yet, only from the top of Firefly.

On the corner of the rock, furthest to the south.

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-1, 3-2.

Seems like some pockets on the side of the boulder towards the wat would yield a line. No known attempts yet.

So called, because this route used to be covered in vines. Follow the line of 5 bolts to the anchor. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Start directly below the tree. Either continue to the top of the rock or traverse left to the wide ledge. This climb provides safe access to the "Short but Sweet" and "Straight-up" anchors.

2nd anchors (towards the back of the rock, also on the west side) no attempts yet.

Start in the small grass patch next to the owl barn, just south of the big white slab. There are two cave systems, the one on the right is firefly, the one on the left is dragonfly. Offwidth or layback most of the route. Low crux getting over the entrance to the firefly cave.

A short climb with a difficult to reach anchor at the top. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"