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Little Russia

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Description

A newest sport climbing area developed in the summer of 2018 by group of Edmonton climbers. Steep, burly routes on solid limestone ranging from 5.9 to 5.13. Located in the Peskett canyon with only 15 min approach this area is perfect for someone who looks to work on a hard climb in a beautiful canyon setting. Climbs have been developed on both sides with the left (North) side been steeper, harder and mainly in the shade and right (South) side, easier, less steep and sunnier. Beginning of the canyon (before the first waterfall) harbours single pitch sport climbs. Deeper in the canyon (~100m) after the first waterfall a couple dozens of drytool climbs had been established. A multi pitch climb and a highline are in the works and coming soon as of March 2019.

If you see a bolted line that is not in the topo it is probably a project that has not been cleaned/climbed yet. More and more climbs will be coming up. Dont hesitate to bring your brush and help the developers to clean the holds. Since this area is new, some loose rock still may exist, wear your helmet.

Due to a short approach and rain protected area under "Start of the line"overhang area is very family friendly.

Most of the sport climbs in this area are named after people who helped with the project. May their names live forever!

60m rope is enough for all the routes except "Start of the Line" extension that needs 70m.

Come and check it out!

Access issues inherited from David Thompson Corridor

Mostly crown land. The majority of routes in the area have been developed by C.O.E. (Centre for Outdoor Education) guides and instructors.

More info on COE here http://www.coe.ca/

You can pick up their local guidebook for $20, all proceeds go towards future route development.

You can also support the David Thompson Corridor Bolt Fund directly at the link below. https://www.gofundme.com/f/david-thompson-bolt-fund?fbclid=IwAR1N-uUwTTVtwd8GDheyCTfPZsZQFTLAlUEFkMFEnypOI6c8c6ZnsZSMyzg

Approach

From Edmonton drive 55k past the Nordegg. From Banff drive 35k from 93 junction.

Park at the pullout on the west side of the David Thompson Highway, just south of Peskett Creek (52.116980, -116.434823). Cross to the north side of the creek then follow the climbers trail on the ridge line along the north side of the creek. Follow the trail for 10 min and drop down the creek (here52.11824, -116.44297). Cross the creek and walk for another 200m till you hit "Start of the line" overhang.

Ethic

You can also support the David Thompson Corridor Bolt Fund directly at the link below. https://www.gofundme.com/f/david-thompson-bolt-fund?fbclid=IwAR1N-uUwTTVtwd8GDheyCTfPZsZQFTLAlUEFkMFEnypOI6c8c6ZnsZSMyzg

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Rhys Beaudry, 5 Jul

Start as for 'Rusalka' but head right after the bulge.

FA: Rhys Beaudry, 25 Jul

FA: Rhys Beaudry, 26 Jul

FA: Rhys Beaudry, 3 Jul

FA: Tim Taylor, 2019

FA: Konstantin Stoletov, Jul 2020

Beautiful power endurance route that follows the obvious line in the middle of the wall. Take some alpine draws to reduce drag.

FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018

Amazing crimpy-pumpy extension on perfect blue limestone all the way to the top. 70m rope.

FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018

An obvious line that is going right in the middle of the overhanging face. Same start as "Start of the line" but go straight up and pull as hard as you can! Combination of overhanging slopers, knee bars and more.

Named after Calfornian group of friends who called themselves "Pull harder".

Amazing big moves on good holds leads to a crimpy finish, easier than it looks. Named after Nitin Chidambaram.

FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018

A hard boulder problem leads to a weird but good rest on a slab. Continue with technical climbing in the obvious corner above the arete. Named after Scott Mckinny.

FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018

Same start than «Le dièdre de McKinny» but stay in the overhang on the right until a good rest. One more boulder problem guards the anchors. Named after Scott Mckinny.

FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018

Climb the slab to a bouldery start followed by a pumpy section to the top. Named after Hugo Breton.

FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018

Traverse up and right take a rest and get into sustained overhanging climbing all the way to juggy finish. Enjoy the crux whipper if you don’t pull trough it!

Named after Jessica Zerb

On the North face of Little Russia proper, look for the line of 3 tightly spaced bolts that intersect the left leaning corner/arete of "Janus".

Named after French Dan Urbain and Sabrina Poplawski. Bolted, cleaned and wire brushed by K. Stoletov.

Depending on the height of the creek, either start by passing a bolt and pulling up onto a pseudo-ledge, or set up a semi-hanging belay at the first bolt. The next bolt marks the start of the climb- it looks high from the ground, but trust it's placement!

Climb 3 bolts of brilliant, technical resistance styled climbing, then head up and cross (right) the left-slanting arete of "Janus", clipping the perma-draw before gaining a rest. Unobvious but easy climbing for a few bolts leads to a final, powerful boulder problem. Finish out on the non-trivial slab.

Set by K. Stoletov

FA: Rhys Beaudry, 24 May

Start on two log bolted station and do a traverse left. Get onto overhanging arete and pump up your way up. Clip the station from victory slopers if you still have anything left in you! Stick clip first or second bolt to avoid unnecessary dipping in the creek. Named after Jan Niedersberg

Sustained route on good crimps. A must-do. If you are not comfortable in that grade you might want to stick clip the first bolt. Named after Merrick Montemurro.

FA: V. Mayoraz, 2018

On the North face of Little Russia (where the creek runs right next to the wall), look for the bolted belay station/belay platform. Identify DDD by its tightly spaced bolts on the smooth, grey, vertical limestone down low, leading to a ledge with black and yellow streaked rock above.

FA: Rhys Beaudry, 30 May

Non-stop, technical sequence of crimps, heelhooks and two finger pockets. Crux are pulling onto the crux bulge mid way with finish on easy holds to the top. Named after Nathan Fok.

FA: A. Mayoraz, 2018

Harder than it looks. Start on easy slabby moves and get into overhanging arete puzzle. Solve it and finish on easy jugs! Named after Ryan Musteca.

FA: A. Mayoraz, 2018

Start on the slab just right of the Tryangle. Climb on low angle till you get into the corner (crux). Pull it and continue on more easy ground to the top. Named after Trevor Jones daughter, Kenzi

FA: Kendra Young, 29 Jul

Boulder V8 but run out of gas after 10 moves? Little Russia got this one for you! Start right of the small overhanging bulge. Climb up and left on an easy ramp until you reach 2 five move V2 boulder problems in a row. Pull through them and step high on a small face traversing to the belay station. Make sure that your belayer is clipped to the belay bolt and not getting pulled off in the case you fall! Named after Brent Bach.

FA: Konstantin Stoletov, 2020

Start under a small overhang just left of the "Davy Jones locker". Go on a face and pull trough laybacks, high steps and thin face moves till you reach an obvious overhang. Go for a big move and try not to peel off! Finish with a few more balance moves. Must do for 11a grade in the canyon! Third bolt has a chain permadraw on it for an easy clip. Named after Amy Blais.

FA: Charlie Mackie

Super diverse climbing. Start as Diesel but climb up and left. Pull on a powerful layback, get through the technical overhang and if you have anything left in you unlock the final thin face/slab sequnce! If you can unlock this route you can unlock the DJ locker:) Stick clip the first bolt if needed.

Named after Megan Jones

FA: K. Stoletov & Laura Castro, 2019

Pumpy. Start left of small cave. Climb on easy face, trending left. Clip the 2nd bolt and engage into never ending pumpfest. Named after Tim "Diesel"Jewison.

FA: K. Stoletov, 2018

Technical. Start right of small cave. Climb on slabby face, trending left. Clip the 3nd bolt and climb past powerfull underclings and deadpoints past the tricky overhang. Pull trough the final mantel if you still have something left in you! Named after Matt Albert.

FA: K. Stoletov, 2018

Walk along the left side of the canyon almost till the waterfalls. Start atop of the little hill.

FA: Konstantin Stoletov

Start 5m right of " Son of a Mitch". Fixed draw on 3rd bolt. Put a short draw on the perma draw bolt.

FA: Konstantin Stoletov

At the back of the canyon on the left side right before the via ferrata.

1 5.12a 20m
2 5.12c 30m
3 5.2 7m
4 5.12b 20m
5 5.11b/c 11m
6 5.10b/c 23m
  1. 20m, 10 bolts, 5.12a.

  2. 30m, 14 bolts, 5.12c.

  3. 7m, 2 bolts, 5.2.

  4. 20m, 10 bolts, 5.12b.

  5. 11m, 7 bolts, 5.11b/c.

  6. 23m, 13 bolts, 5.10b/c.

FA: Rhys Beaudry & Konstantin Stoletov, Jul 2020

Start on a face, get in the corner, pull overhang…finish on the slab! This one has everything! Named after Jenna Hanson.

FA: K. Stoletov, 2018

Climb an easy face to a bulge. Pull trough it and get to menacing overhang. Match on some good crimps and trow to an invisible jug. Hard to onsight…It is that invisible! Exellent climb on good rock. Named after Vern Schwab.

FA: K. Stoletov, 2018

Start on a small face, pull little overhang and finish on a small slab trending up and right. A true warm up! Named after Lee Green.

FA: L. Castro, 2018

Start on a crimpy face (crux), passing three bolts than get on an easier ground till you hit intimidating roof. Pull it trough on great jugs and finish more easy face climbing. Named after Sonya and Dan Wallbank.

FA: N. Fok, 2018

For you Yamnuska lovers and thrill seekers! Got bored belaying those cool teens on 5.12s? Go on this one! Start on a face 5m right of Red Sonya. Climb some Canadian limestone to the overhang. Feel free creating your own holdsJ Pull the overhang and continue on more Canadian limestone. Named after Tyler Davidson.

FA: M. Montemurro, 2018

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