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Waiparous Creek

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 1

Seasonality

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Approach

A stock 4wd is normally sufficient to access this area. Continue driving on highway 40 past the South Ghost turn off for about 16.5km before turning left onto Waiparous Creek Road. Take the left hand at the fork and continue down this 4wd road for approximately 13km until you reach marker 129 at the creek. Park here. Cross the creek and take the cut line south (left). Follow this cut line directly to go towards Kemosabe and The Ice Funnel or take the ATV tracks left to head towards Hydrophobia. Approximately 1.5-2hrs walk in.

Routes

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Grade Route

One of the Rockies king ice lines. Climb a 25m apron of easier ice to a cave belay. The crux is often the first 15-20m of funky, chandeliered and overhanging ice. What follows is some of the most vertical pure blue ice you will find anywhere. Descent via v-threads. Avalanche hazard is low on this route.

FFA: Frank Campbell & Karl Nagy, 1985

Start with a short vertical pillar which leads to undulating terrain and a steep finish. This route is 10 minutes past Kemosabe and in complex avalanche terrain.

FA: Frank Campbell & Dave Dancer, 1987

45m of WI3 leads leads to a snow bench and the second pitch which is sustained and funky WI4. Rappel the route

FA: Frank Campbell & Dave Dancer, 1987

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Activity

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