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EEOR

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 41
  • Aka: East End of Rundle

Seasonality

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Description

Extensively covered in its own chapter of Banff Rock (http://banffrock.ca).

Approach

Access via a climber's trail across the road from a wide pull-out a few hundred metres before the Goat Creek parking lot. In 20-25 minutes, you should arrive at the base of Parallel Dreams/True Grit; follow the trail at the base of the cliffs to access other climbs.

See Banff Rock for further information.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: M Whalen & D Bartrom

FA: M Dahlie & P Smith, 1980

This route offers great rock and gear and bolts where gear is not available. It was originally climbed at 11b AO however the roof has since been freed at a grade of around 12a. A must do!

Gear: Standard rack to 3 inches with doubles in most sizes. A haul rope is helpful for some of the harder pitches which are quite steep.

Approach as for True Grit. Climb starts around 15m to the left of a lone pine tree at the base of the wall. The first bolt has a black hanger.

P1- 50m,5.9: Climb up on good rock with some delicate moves to a good ledge and anchor after 30m. Either belay here or preferably ascend another 20m (5.8) to a bolted anchor on a loose ledge.

P2 - 30m,5.10c: Move right on the ledge and crank up a few moves beside the crack. Stem up the corner feature then step left when possible. Great moves on solid stone above.

P3 - 35m,5.10d: Ascend an easy staircase with increasing difficulty into a shallow v groove. Technical climbing on superb rock for a few bolts leads to a ledge. Look for the secret left hand side pull to get over the overlap above.

P4 - 35m,5.9: Ascend easily up a right facing corner to a stemming crux on gear. Continue up easier terrain to a nice belay ledge (small rack to #2/nuts will suffice)

P5 - 30m,5.9: Step right and ascend a straightforward pitch to the belay where the wall steepens. From the top of this pitch retreat is straightforward with a 70m rope.

P6 - 30m,5.10d: Traverse up and right on slightly fractious rock past 7 bolts to a traverse finger rail. In a good horizontal, place a 0.3 and 0.5 bd cam before launching straight up past another 2 bolts and the hanging anchor.

P7- 30m,5.11a/b: Climb straight up from the belay on steep and featured rock with bolts. Halfway up the pitch the character changes to a layback/ stemming gear corner (thin to mid sized gear), and a final bolt before moving out right to the belay. An amazing pitch.

P8 - 30m,5.10d A0: Technical stemming/ face climbing past 4 bolts leads to a step out left and a nice gear crack. Climb up this to a small undercling roof. Step back right (bolt) and up to a small crack leading to the big and wild roof. Currently the next 5 bolts are A0 with a large gap between the 1st and 2nd bolts. A small cam can be placed to shorten the gap.

P9 - 30m,5.11b: A spectacular pitch. Climb 5 bolts past finger jugs and an undercling section. After this transition into the technical stemming corner on gear and 1 bolt. A few metres above the bolt at a finger rail head right into a rest. Climb up past another bolt then step back left to a small belay stance.

P10 - 35m,5.8: Head up left from the belay onto a slab of perfect rock to finish. From the top anchor scramble about 100m up before accessing easier ground to meet up with the regular EEOR scramble route descent trail.

FA: Marc Piche & Steve Holeczi, 15 Aug 2016

1 5.10a 30m
2 5.10a 30m
3 5.10a - c 25m
4 5.10a 35m
5 5.10a 25m
6 5.10a 25m

Most of the route has been retrofitted with 8mm ring bolts, and new rap chains. More run out than the average sports route.

Last 2 pitches often combined, but can be split at the rap station to do it in 6 pitches.

Variant: As for true Grit, but on pitch 3 take the left line of bolts up an arête (5.10c).

1 5.8 45m
2 5.8 30m
3 5.10a 50m
4 5.7 30m
5 5.8 30m
6 5.9 30m
7 5.6 40m

FA: B Spear, H Hall & S Chambers, 1999

1 5.8 45m
2 5.10a 35m

Located above 'True Grit'

FA: P Giguere & J Racette, 1997

1 5.6 50m
2 5.5 50m
3 5.5 45m
4 5.7 25m
5 5.7 40m
6 5.7 40m
7 5.6 45m
8 5.9 25m
9 5.7 45m
10 5.7 45m
11 5.9 45m

Pitches 1-7 same as 'Reprobate'.

Alteration veers left near the top of pitch 7.

FA: C Quinn & C Perry, 1985

Variant start and finish to the right of 'Quasar'.

FA: M Hartley & K Dube, 1996

Start 100m right of the toe of the buttress, scrambling up Right side of 10 m high square block. Possible to rap up to pitch 8 with double ropes, otherwise walk down tourist route for Mt Rundle. Bolts have replaced most of the piton.

Climbs the first 6 pitches of "Guides' Route" then goes left.

FA: P Stoliker & D Pauls, 1985

Most pitches are low 5th grade. Much soloing and many variations possible.

Variant start to "Guides' Route", starting to the right and joining "Guides' Route" at the top of pitch 9 at the bottom of the big chimney. Then, continue up the chimney as two pitches to meet "Guides' Route" again at the start of pitch 13. Then follows "Guides' Route" to the top.

FA: E Dumarac, T Wolfe & P Norrie, 1998

Redirected and much more popular variation to Free Fall.

FA: E Dumerac & P Norrie, 1998

FA: U Kallen & M Toft, 1972

FFA: J Martin & C Perry, 1979

FA: C Perry & M White, 1982

FA: L MacKay, D Vockeroth & J White, 1972

FA: C Perry & M White, 1981

FFA: R Lanthier & and party, 1986

There are bolts on harder sections.

FA: C Scott & D Smith, 1972

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