This route offers great rock and gear and bolts where gear is not available. It was originally climbed at 11b AO however the roof has since been freed at a grade of around 12a. A must do!
Gear: Standard rack to 3 inches with doubles in most sizes. A haul rope is helpful for some of the harder pitches which are quite steep.
Approach as for True Grit. Climb starts around 15m to the left of a lone pine tree at the base of the wall. The first bolt has a black hanger.
P1- 50m,5.9: Climb up on good rock with some delicate moves to a good ledge and anchor after 30m. Either belay here or preferably ascend another 20m (5.8) to a bolted anchor on a loose ledge.
P2 - 30m,5.10c: Move right on the ledge and crank up a few moves beside the crack. Stem up the corner feature then step left when possible. Great moves on solid stone above.
P3 - 35m,5.10d: Ascend an easy staircase with increasing difficulty into a shallow v groove. Technical climbing on superb rock for a few bolts leads to a ledge. Look for the secret left hand side pull to get over the overlap above.
P4 - 35m,5.9: Ascend easily up a right facing corner to a stemming crux on gear. Continue up easier terrain to a nice belay ledge (small rack to #2/nuts will suffice)
P5 - 30m,5.9: Step right and ascend a straightforward pitch to the belay where the wall steepens. From the top of this pitch retreat is straightforward with a 70m rope.
P6 - 30m,5.10d: Traverse up and right on slightly fractious rock past 7 bolts to a traverse finger rail. In a good horizontal, place a 0.3 and 0.5 bd cam before launching straight up past another 2 bolts and the hanging anchor.
P7- 30m,5.11a/b: Climb straight up from the belay on steep and featured rock with bolts. Halfway up the pitch the character changes to a layback/ stemming gear corner (thin to mid sized gear), and a final bolt before moving out right to the belay. An amazing pitch.
P8 - 30m,5.10d A0: Technical stemming/ face climbing past 4 bolts leads to a step out left and a nice gear crack. Climb up this to a small undercling roof. Step back right (bolt) and up to a small crack leading to the big and wild roof. Currently the next 5 bolts are A0 with a large gap between the 1st and 2nd bolts. A small cam can be placed to shorten the gap.
P9 - 30m,5.11b: A spectacular pitch. Climb 5 bolts past finger jugs and an undercling section. After this transition into the technical stemming corner on gear and 1 bolt. A few metres above the bolt at a finger rail head right into a rest. Climb up past another bolt then step back left to a small belay stance.
P10 - 35m,5.8: Head up left from the belay onto a slab of perfect rock to finish. From the top anchor scramble about 100m up before accessing easier ground to meet up with the regular EEOR scramble route descent trail.
FA: Marc Piche & Steve Holeczi, 15 Aug 2016