Begbie Bluffs Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Hunter Shurniak Vanessa Wills Kevin T EvgenyS Jaime Beecroft Kynan Shurniak James Frith Maurice Mager Dani Altura Jack Burnett

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Begbie Bluffs 125 in Crag
- 1.1. The Point 6 in Area
- 1.2. In-Knee Butress 1 in Crag
- 1.3. Tasmania Wall 4 in Crag
- 1.4. Aussie Wall 4 in Area
- 1.5. Kiwi West Wall 8 in Crag
- 1.6. Kiwi East Wall 3 in Crag
- 1.7. Pharmacy Wall 10 in Crag
- 1.8. Corner Store 5 in Crag
- 1.9. Heaven wall 5 in Crag
- 1.10. North Wall 5 in Crag
- 1.11. Crystal Palace 10 in Crag
- 1.12. Raptor Wall 34 in Area
- 1.13. Hidden Wall 1 in Cliff
- 1.14. Rabbit Wall 18 in Area
- 1.15. Popeye Wall 2 in Crag
- 1.16. Creek Wall 2 in Area
- 1.17. Bifacial Wall 2 in Cliff
- 1.18. Kips Wall 0 in Cliff
- 1.19. Kids Wall 5 in Cliff
2. Index by grade

1. Begbie Bluffs 125 routes in Crag

12 1 14 15 16 17 19 18

1 The Point 12 Raptor Wall 14 Rabbit Wall 15 Popeye Wall 16 Creek Wall 17 Bifacial Wall 18 Kips Wall 19 Kids Wall

Summary:

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.935499, -118.202887

1.1. The Point 6 routes in Area

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.935469, -118.206299

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Point Black	5.7	Sport 15m, 6
2	Point of No Return BD cam .4-2, Mixed	5.7	Trad 15m
3	Point of View BD Cam .4-2, Mixed	5.8	Trad 15m
4	Diagonal Crack BD Cam .4-2, Mixed	5.5	Trad 12m
5	Starting Point BD Cam .4-2, Mixed	5.7	Trad 12m
6	The Lowest Point	5.7	Sport 12m, 3

1.2. In-Knee Butress 1 route in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		In-Knee BD Cam .3-2, Mixed	5.8	Trad 15m

1.3. Tasmania Wall 4 routes in Crag

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Dichotomy BD Cam .3-1	5.8	Mixed trad 15m, 3
2	Diablerie	5.10b	Sport 15m, 5
3	Dimples	5.10b	Sport 15m, 5
4	Dimorphic	5.10b	Sport 15m, 5

1.4. Aussie Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Waltzing Matilda (P1)Start to the left of the tree above and traverse to the leftmost anchors. 10a, 25m (P2) climb directly above and past a roof. 10b, 20m. BD Cam .4-2, Nuts, Mixed	5.10b	Trad 45m, 2
2	Good on YaMate Start up Waltzing Matilda, traverse slightly left and charge toward the roofs above. BD Cam .3-2, Nuts	5.10d	Mixed trad 25m, 8
3	Kookaburra Start up Waltzing Matilda and go straight up	5.10b	Sport 25m, 8
4	Koala Crack BD Cam .3-1	5.10c	Sport 25m, 7

1.5. Kiwi West Wall 8 routes in Crag

Summary:: Trad climbing and Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Southern Cross	5.10b	Sport 12m, 5
2	Southern Crack Start right of Southern Cross but head left after spire	5.5	Trad 12m
3	Toki Poi Tangata BD Cam .4-2	5.8	Trad 12m
4	The Hillary Step	5.10a	Sport 12m, 5
5	Want to be a Wana Be	5.8	Sport 12m, 5
6	Lightning over Christchurch BD Cam .4-2, Mixed	5.6	Trad 13m
7	The Moa BD Cam .4-1, mixed	5.7	Trad 15m
8	Milford Cruise BD Cam .4-2, Mixed	5.5	Trad 15m

1.6. Kiwi East Wall 3 routes in Crag

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Disgruntled maori BD Cam .4-2	5.8	Trad 13m
2	The Kea	5.10c	Sport 13m, 5
3	Rowatunga	5.10a	Sport 13m, 5

1.7. Pharmacy Wall 10 routes in Crag

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Anonymous	5.11a	Sport 24m, 9
2	Ghost Writer	5.10a	Sport 27m, 10
3	Prescribed Bun	5.11b	Sport 25m, 9
4	Larium	5.12a R	Sport 25m, 8
5	Freebase	5.11d	Sport 25m, 9
6	Novocain	5.11b	Sport 20m, 7
7	Novocain Extra	5.12b	Sport 22m, 8
8	Ecstasy BD Cam .3-1, Mixed	5.9	Trad 29m
9	Lip-Palm	5.10b	Sport 22m, 7
10	Meat Needle	5.10c	Sport 22m, 8

1.8. Corner Store 5 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Mixed Bag of Nuts BD Cam .4-2, Mixed	5.8	Trad 27m
2	The Mixer's Aisle BD Cam .3-2, Mixed	5.9	Trad 27m
3	Nasty Reading Crack BD Cam .3-2, Mixed	5.10a	Trad 25m
4	Tobacco Road BD Cam .3-2, Mixed		Trad 20m
5	Food for Thought BD Cam .3-1, Mixed	5.10b	Trad 20m

1.9. Heaven wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Little Corner of Heaven BD Cam .4-3	5.10a	Trad 20m
2	Straight to Hell	5.11d	Sport 20m, 7
3	Owl's Contempt	5.10c	Sport 27m, 7
4	Owl's Contempt Variation Start at the dihedral and traverse left	5.9	Sport 27m, 7
5	Sin and Burn	5.10d	Sport 20m, 7

1.10. North Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Trad climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Supernatural Reversible Raincoat BD Cam .3-3	5.11a	Trad 15m
2	Final Frontier BD Cam .4-2, Mixed	5.10b	Trad 12m
3	Little Green Man from Mars BD Cam .4-3, Mixed	5.10d	Trad 20m
4	Buzzed Light Beer BD Cam .4-3, Mixed (second pitch of Little Green Men from Mars)	5.10b	Trad 30m, 2
5	Milky Way BD Cam .4-3, Mixed	5.5	Trad 20m

1.11. Crystal Palace 10 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Sport climbing

	Route	Grade	Style
1	De-Laused in the Cematorium	5.10b	Sport 20m, 7
2	Gilded Cage	5.11b	Sport 19m, 6
3	Yellow Perli	5.11b	Sport 18m, 6
4	Dude Rag	5.12b	Sport 18m, 5
5	More Flower Power Fixed Draws	5.12d	Sport 16m
6	More Fire Power	5.12c	Sport 18m, 6
7	Obsidian	5.12b	Sport 18m, 6
8	Doppelganger	5.12a	Sport 18m, 6
9	Curse of Londo	5.11b	Sport 16m, 6
10	Boogie Night	5.11a	Sport 16m, 5

1.12. Raptor Wall 34 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.935508, -118.203698

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Flyte	5.11b	Sport 23m, 7
2	★★ Superrealtive Climb the overhanging dihedral left of "Supertramp"	5.11b	Sport 23m, 7
3	Supertramp	5.11a	Sport 25m
4	★ Juggernaut	5.10b	Sport 25m
5	April Fools	5.10c	Mixed trad 28m, 9
6	Maniac	5.11a R	Mixed trad 30m, 11
7	★★★ Flashdance	5.11a	Sport 25m
8	★★ Forty Something Walk down or double rappel to get down	5.10b	Sport 47m, 12
9	Cross Town Traffic P1, 25m 10a. P2, 20m 5.9	5.10a	Sport 45m, 2, 8
10	Aerie Something A link of Forty Something and Aerie In-Cuts	5.10a	Sport 50m
11	★ Aerie In-Cuts	5.6	Sport 21m, 9
12	★ W5	5.9	Sport 25m, 8
13	★★★ Line of Fire	5.8	Sport 25m, 8
14	Changer La Couche The second pitch of Line of Fire	5.11c	Sport 20m, 8
15	★★ The Beak / Right of line of fire	5.10b	Sport 25m
16	Rat’s Nest Mixed	5.8	Trad 25m
17	Raindance	5.10a	Sport 20m
18	★★ High and Dry	5.8	Sport 25m, 8
19	Foray into the Future Mixed	5.8	Trad 6m
20	★★★ Honeycomb Kid Start up the groove and climb up to the ledge, aim for the leftmost anchors on the ledge	5.10d	Sport 35m, 2, 8
21	Raptor Roof Fixed draws, shares the same start as Honeycomb Kid and either access the roof via Honeycomb Kid or Captain Crunch	5.13a	Sport 41m, 2, 9
22	Captain Crunch Shares the same start as Honeycomb Kid, continue by going straight up to Raptor Roof but cut right at the overhang	5.12a	Sport 36m, 2, 8
23	Troglodyte Start up Honeycomb Kid and follow the line directly to the right of Captain Crunch	5.12a	Sport 34m, 2, 8
24	Zoloft Climb Honeycomb Kid and head directly to the arete	5.12c	Sport 32m, 14
25	Coffee Meat Grease +Fixed draws	5.12c	Sport 20m, 3
26	Mark’s Dirty Little Secret +fixed draws	5.13a	Sport 16m, 1
27	Hot and Sour Fixed draws	5.12b	Sport 17m, 6
28	The Portal P1, Start up Hot and Sour and move right and than back left to the anchors of Hot and Sour. P2 follow the bolt line straight up	5.10d	Sport 41m, 2, 11
29	Empire Strikes Back P1,Start up the Portal but traverse far right to the anchor. P2 go straight up to the next anchors	5.11a	Sport 38m, 2, 9
30	Space Balls	5.11b	Sport 25m, 2
31	Monkey Balls Fixed draws. Use caution rock quality is undetermined	5.12b	Sport 25m
32	Lucy in the Sky is Falling Fixed draws, use caution rock quality is undetermined	5.12c	Sport 22m
33	ill Behaviour Fixed draws, OUT OF CONDITION (view send list for details)	5.12c	Sport 20m
34	Riverting Rumors A thuggish roof. Fixed draws. Not in right spot, move if you have more info	5.11b	Sport 15m, 5

1.13. Hidden Wall 1 route in Cliff

Summary:: All Trad climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Sister Natural Mixed, The dihedral up the middle of the wall	5.9	Trad

1.14. Rabbit Wall 18 routes in Area

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.935194, -118.201717

	Route	Grade	Style
1	★★ Wascaly Wabbit The leftmost route on the wall.	5.12c	Sport 17m, 5
2	The Briar Patch May be mixed	5.8	Trad 25m
3	★ Fields of clover	5.9	Sport 25m
4	Rabbit Hunter	5.10a	Sport 25m, 8
5	★ Jack the rabbit Start left end of diagonal ramp and straight up slab, or join the top of JB	5.10c	Sport 25m
6	★ Jacks back The climb up the middle of the ramp with steep start to slab middle and buttress finish shared with NJPF	5.11b	Sport 25m
7	★★ Nice jugs, pretty face Steep jugs to high quality quartzite slab, starting at the base of the ramp with steep juggy climbing at first	5.10b	Sport 25m
8	Missing Action Mixed	5.10a	Trad
9	Myxomatosis Start up he 10b GGWB but at roof go right across lip and then up to chains left of O.	5.11b	Sport 25m, 8
10	★ Good guys wear black Left of corner system onto slab and traverse left below roof	5.10b	Sport 25m, 7
11	Hero and the Terror Mixed	5.10a	Trad 25m
12	★★★ Octagon Up arête just right of overhung corner system	5.10b	Sport 25m
13	★ Force of one Right of Octagon with Technical crimpy lower section. Some cams may help between the bolts	5.11d	Sport 25m, 7
14	The Warren Right Mixed	5.9	Trad 25m
15	The Warren Centre Mixed	5.10a	Trad 25m
16	The Warren Left Mixed Route	5.10a	Trad 25m
17	Jugs Bunny Right of Dirt Bunnies	5.10a	Sport 25m, 7
18	Dirt Bunnies Leftmost route up dirty roof	5.11a R	Sport 20m, 7

1.15. Popeye Wall 2 routes in Crag

Summary:: All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.934583, -118.200558

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★★ Spanokopota	5.11c	Sport 22m, 7
2		★ Brutus	5.10d	Sport 17m

1.16. Creek Wall 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.934308, -118.199915

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Hooper	5.8	Sport 20m, 8
2		Micro Hydro	5.10a	Sport 18m, 8

1.17. Bifacial Wall 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.934128, -118.199133

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Short Run	5.7	Unknown 8m, 4
2		★★★ Bifacial Retouch	5.8	Unknown

1.18. Kips Wall 0 routes in Cliff

1.19. Kids Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.934065, -118.197943

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Easy Peasy	5.5	Sport 20m, 7
2	Begbie Elementary	5.6	Sport 20m, 10
3	★ The Tough Stuff	5.7	Sport 20m, 8
4	Splitfire Mixed	5.6	Trad 20m
5	The Manuscriptorium	5.6	Sport 20m, 8

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style	Area
5.5		Diagonal Crack	Trad 12m	1.1. The Point
		Milford Cruise	Trad 15m	1.5. Kiwi West Wall
		Southern Crack	Trad 12m	1.5. Kiwi West Wall
		Milky Way	Trad 20m	1.10. North Wall
		Easy Peasy	Sport 20m, 7	1.19. Kids Wall
5.6		Lightning over Christchurch	Trad 13m	1.5. Kiwi West Wall
	★	Aerie In-Cuts	Sport 21m, 9	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Begbie Elementary	Sport 20m, 10	1.19. Kids Wall
		Splitfire	Trad 20m	1.19. Kids Wall
		The Manuscriptorium	Sport 20m, 8	1.19. Kids Wall
5.7		Point Black	Sport 15m, 6	1.1. The Point
		Point of No Return	Trad 15m	1.1. The Point
		Starting Point	Trad 12m	1.1. The Point
		The Lowest Point	Sport 12m, 3	1.1. The Point
		The Moa	Trad 15m	1.5. Kiwi West Wall
		Short Run	Unknown 8m, 4	1.17. Bifacial Wall
	★	The Tough Stuff	Sport 20m, 8	1.19. Kids Wall
5.8		Point of View	Trad 15m	1.1. The Point
		In-Knee	Trad 15m	1.2. In-Knee Butress
		Dichotomy	Mixed trad 15m, 3	1.3. Tasmania Wall
		Toki Poi Tangata	Trad 12m	1.5. Kiwi West Wall
		Want to be a Wana Be	Sport 12m, 5	1.5. Kiwi West Wall
		Disgruntled maori	Trad 13m	1.6. Kiwi East Wall
		Mixed Bag of Nuts	Trad 27m	1.8. Corner Store
		Foray into the Future	Trad 6m	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★★	High and Dry	Sport 25m, 8	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★★★	Line of Fire	Sport 25m, 8	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Rat’s Nest	Trad 25m	1.12. Raptor Wall
		The Briar Patch	Trad 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		Hooper	Sport 20m, 8	1.16. Creek Wall
	★★★	Bifacial Retouch	Unknown	1.17. Bifacial Wall
5.9		Ecstasy	Trad 29m	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		The Mixer's Aisle	Trad 27m	1.8. Corner Store
		Owl's Contempt Variation	Sport 27m, 7	1.9. Heaven wall
	★	W5	Sport 25m, 8	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Sister Natural	Trad	1.13. Hidden Wall
	★	Fields of clover	Sport 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		The Warren Right	Trad 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
5.10a		The Hillary Step	Sport 12m, 5	1.5. Kiwi West Wall
		Rowatunga	Sport 13m, 5	1.6. Kiwi East Wall
		Ghost Writer	Sport 27m, 10	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		Nasty Reading Crack	Trad 25m	1.8. Corner Store
		Little Corner of Heaven	Trad 20m	1.9. Heaven wall
		Aerie Something	Sport 50m	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Cross Town Traffic	Sport 45m, 2, 8	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Raindance	Sport 20m	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Hero and the Terror	Trad 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		Jugs Bunny	Sport 25m, 7	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		Missing Action	Trad	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		Rabbit Hunter	Sport 25m, 8	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		The Warren Centre	Trad 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		The Warren Left	Trad 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		Micro Hydro	Sport 18m, 8	1.16. Creek Wall
5.10b		Diablerie	Sport 15m, 5	1.3. Tasmania Wall
		Dimorphic	Sport 15m, 5	1.3. Tasmania Wall
		Dimples	Sport 15m, 5	1.3. Tasmania Wall
		Kookaburra	Sport 25m, 8	1.4. Aussie Wall
		Waltzing Matilda	Trad 45m, 2	1.4. Aussie Wall
		Southern Cross	Sport 12m, 5	1.5. Kiwi West Wall
		Lip-Palm	Sport 22m, 7	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		Food for Thought	Trad 20m	1.8. Corner Store
		Buzzed Light Beer	Trad 30m, 2	1.10. North Wall
		Final Frontier	Trad 12m	1.10. North Wall
		De-Laused in the Cematorium	Sport 20m, 7	1.11. Crystal Palace
	★★	Forty Something	Sport 47m, 12	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★	Juggernaut	Sport 25m	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★★	The Beak	Sport 25m	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★	Good guys wear black	Sport 25m, 7	1.14. Rabbit Wall
	★★	Nice jugs, pretty face	Sport 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
	★★★	Octagon	Sport 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
5.10c		Koala Crack	Sport 25m, 7	1.4. Aussie Wall
		The Kea	Sport 13m, 5	1.6. Kiwi East Wall
		Meat Needle	Sport 22m, 8	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		Owl's Contempt	Sport 27m, 7	1.9. Heaven wall
		April Fools	Mixed trad 28m, 9	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★	Jack the rabbit	Sport 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
5.10d		Good on YaMate	Mixed trad 25m, 8	1.4. Aussie Wall
		Sin and Burn	Sport 20m, 7	1.9. Heaven wall
		Little Green Man from Mars	Trad 20m	1.10. North Wall
	★★★	Honeycomb Kid	Sport 35m, 2, 8	1.12. Raptor Wall
		The Portal	Sport 41m, 2, 11	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★	Brutus	Sport 17m	1.15. Popeye Wall
5.11a		Anonymous	Sport 24m, 9	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		Supernatural Reversible Raincoat	Trad 15m	1.10. North Wall
		Boogie Night	Sport 16m, 5	1.11. Crystal Palace
		Empire Strikes Back	Sport 38m, 2, 9	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★★★	Flashdance	Sport 25m	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Supertramp	Sport 25m	1.12. Raptor Wall
5.11a R		Maniac	Mixed trad 30m, 11	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Dirt Bunnies	Sport 20m, 7	1.14. Rabbit Wall
5.11b		Novocain	Sport 20m, 7	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		Prescribed Bun	Sport 25m, 9	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		Curse of Londo	Sport 16m, 6	1.11. Crystal Palace
		Gilded Cage	Sport 19m, 6	1.11. Crystal Palace
		Yellow Perli	Sport 18m, 6	1.11. Crystal Palace
		Flyte	Sport 23m, 7	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Riverting Rumors	Sport 15m, 5	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Space Balls	Sport 25m, 2	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★★	Superrealtive	Sport 23m, 7	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★	Jacks back	Sport 25m	1.14. Rabbit Wall
		Myxomatosis	Sport 25m, 8	1.14. Rabbit Wall
5.11c		Changer La Couche	Sport 20m, 8	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★★★	Spanokopota	Sport 22m, 7	1.15. Popeye Wall
5.11d		Freebase	Sport 25m, 9	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		Straight to Hell	Sport 20m, 7	1.9. Heaven wall
	★	Force of one	Sport 25m, 7	1.14. Rabbit Wall
5.12a		Doppelganger	Sport 18m, 6	1.11. Crystal Palace
		Captain Crunch	Sport 36m, 2, 8	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Troglodyte	Sport 34m, 2, 8	1.12. Raptor Wall
5.12a R		Larium	Sport 25m, 8	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
5.12b		Novocain Extra	Sport 22m, 8	1.7. Pharmacy Wall
		Dude Rag	Sport 18m, 5	1.11. Crystal Palace
		Obsidian	Sport 18m, 6	1.11. Crystal Palace
		Hot and Sour	Sport 17m, 6	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Monkey Balls	Sport 25m	1.12. Raptor Wall
5.12c		More Fire Power	Sport 18m, 6	1.11. Crystal Palace
		Coffee Meat Grease	Sport 20m, 3	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Lucy in the Sky is Falling	Sport 22m	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Zoloft	Sport 32m, 14	1.12. Raptor Wall
		ill Behaviour	Sport 20m	1.12. Raptor Wall
	★★	Wascaly Wabbit	Sport 17m, 5	1.14. Rabbit Wall
5.12d		More Flower Power	Sport 16m	1.11. Crystal Palace
5.13a		Mark’s Dirty Little Secret	Sport 16m, 1	1.12. Raptor Wall
		Raptor Roof	Sport 41m, 2, 9	1.12. Raptor Wall
?		Tobacco Road	Trad 20m	1.8. Corner Store