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Description

Mount Fay is a mountain located on the border of Alberta and British Columbia on the Continental Divide in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain forms part of the backdrop to Moraine Lake in the Valley of the Ten Peaks of Banff National Park. It was named in 1902 by Charles E. Fay, an early explorer of the Canadian Rockies.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Barry Blanchard, David Cheesmond & Carl Tobin, 1984

The first part follows the 1984 route, climbing three steeper ice steps with lower-angle snow in between. Papert, Harrington and Lindič continued straight up where the 1984 team escaped to the right. The headwall offers very steep and demanding mixed climbing on very loose and hard-to-protect rock. One bivy is probably mandatory. A cloudy day or starting at night is recommended to avoid getting in trouble with huge spindrifts and avalanches.

Gear
Set of cams up to 3 inches, set of nuts, set of micro nuts, six pitons, nine ice screws

The moniker is a tribute to their friend Marc-Andre Leclerc, who had expressed a desire to name a route after the Simon and Garfunkel song before he died in 2018.

FA: Ines Papert, Brette Harrington & Luka Lindič, 3 Apr 2019

Information needed

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