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YDS
5.6

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Routes

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Grade Route

A great, long alpine climb up the West Lion. Considered a `top 50' route in the Vancouver Climbing guidebook. After crossing the loose scree below the North face, go up and around the toe of the NorthEast Buttress. Look for some sawed off branches just above a patch of trees to start the route.

We did it in 6 pitches with a 70m rope: p1: Start up a short, steep wall, then pass a tree with some old slings on it. Continue upwards over slabby terrain, eventually aiming for a short, steep handcrack. Belay above this on a tree with some old slings.

p2: From here, it was possible to climb all the way until the big talus ledge.

Scramble up from the top left corner of the ledge, and rope up below the next steep bit of rock.

p3: A fun, long pitch over easy terrain. Keep staying on the ridge as it narrows,

p4: As the ridge starts to steepen, climb up it for another 10 meters until a path leftwards through the bushes appears. Climb through bush for a rope length.

p5: Leave the bushes and climb an exposed ridge line, through a few chimneys with a lot of exposure. Belay at a large tree at the top of the ridge.

p6: Mostly scrambling. From the big tree, follow a trail to the summit cairn.

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