Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) Cyberia Boulders The Laboratory boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ No Eggs Left
| ||||
V5 | ★ Obey My Slopers
| ||||
V5 | ★ Cyber Red
| ||||
V8 | ★★★ Cyber Green
| ||||
V3 | Clone In Sheep's Clothing
| ||||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) Cyberia Boulders The Sleeper boulder | |||||
V2 | Heel Hook Dyno
| ||||
V3 | Directional Fallacy
| ||||
V5 | Sleepyhead Traverse
| ||||
V7 | Passion Pitted
| ||||
V0 - 1 | ★ Less Than Nimble
| ||||
V3 | ★★ Jack Be Nimble
| ||||
V6/7 | He Drew The Sleeper
| ||||
V7/8 | He Drew The Sleeper Low
| ||||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) Cyberia Boulders Rodeo boulder | |||||
V2 | Memory Wars Stand
| ||||
V6 | Memory Wars
| ||||
V6 | The Oracle
| ||||
V7 | The Prophet
| ||||
V6 | Alzheimer's Toro
| ||||
V11 | ★★★ Premonition
| ||||
V4 | ★★ Raging Bull
| ||||
V9 | ★★ Moveable feast
| ||||
V10 | Movable Feast Low
| ||||
V8 | Cowboy Justice
| ||||
V4/5 | King Kong Gravitron
| ||||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) Cyberia Boulders Bear Cave boulder | |||||
V1 | Bear Cave Direct
| ||||
V2 | Bear Cave Direct SDS
| ||||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) Cyberia Boulders Cyborg Lover | |||||
V3 | ★★ Forgive Me Father For I Have Sinned
FA: Sharka Zdeninsyn | ||||
V6 | ★★ Cyborg Lover
| ||||
V7 | Hunter Gatherer
| ||||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) Cyberia Boulders Cave | |||||
V4 | End Of The Shelf
| ||||
V8 | Greenland Stand
| ||||
V8 | Icelandia
| ||||
V10 | Greenland
| ||||
V10 | ★★ New frontiers
| ||||
V5 | ★★ Mongolia
| ||||
V2 | Dump Days
| ||||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Cyberia (hartland-kilarney lake) Cyberia Boulders Huge Cave | |||||
V12 | ★★ Consigned to oblivion
| ||||
V11 | ★★ Consigned to oblivion stand
| ||||
V6 | ★★★ Time to fly
| ||||
V9 | ★★ Trans Siberian Express
| ||||
V10 | ★★ TD Cave
| ||||
V11 | ★★ Candy shop
| ||||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island East Sooke Park Tobasco Rock | |||||
5.7 | ★★ Wiggin Nark
Farthest (Climbers) Left anchors, tricky start, walk off. FA: T Painter & J Peterman | 8m | |||
5.7 | ★★ Mungle Crack
Big crack to the right of Wiggin Nark, 2nd set of anchors from climbers left FA: T Painter & J Peterman | 8m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Dr. Sketch
Slightly right of Mungle Crack, thin crack and small shelves for your feet. 3rd set of anchors from climbers left FA: T Painter & J Peterman | 8m | |||
5.8 | ★★ Pinky and the Brain
Farthest climb on the right, follow the big crack right to a ledge, then head left towards the anchor. FA: T Painter & J Peterman | 8m | |||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island East Sooke Park Beechey Head | |||||
5.7 | Cephalus
Located around 100 meters to the left of Whale Power | ||||
5.12a | Whale Power
is a sport route (can be done as a mixed/trad route) FA: Kris Holm, 1993 | 5 | |||
5.11c | Altitudinosity | ||||
5.9 | ★★★ Abbey Road | ||||
5.8 | WhaleBack
a couple meters to the right of Abbey Road | ||||
5.10a | Head Trip
when approaching the crag, instead of taking the right trail take the left trail to the base of this climb | ||||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island East Sooke Park Mirkwood Forest | |||||
5.10c | ★ Ciderman
Climb past one bolt, and into the crack system above the overhang. FA: Mark Phillips, 1993 | 1 | |||
5.10a | White Hot Matter
a small amount of face climbing leads to a superb right-leaning finger crack that will eat your passive gear! FA: Mark Phillips, 1993 | 12m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Forgetful Chris
Stiff moves on some small hold’s off the deck lead to easier climbing above, bring your stick clip! Forgetful Chirs joins The Happy Foot Doctor at its 3’d bolt. FA: Mark Phillips, 1993 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.10c | The Happy foot doctor
Start on the right side of the tree and crack through crimps and slopers up to the horizontal seam, then break out left on trad gear to the crack that forms the upper bit of White Hot Matter. FA: Mark Phillips, 1993 | 15m, 5 | |||
5.10c | The Happy Foot Doctor Direct
When you hit the horizontal seam on The Happy Foot Doctor, continue straight up following the line of bolts. some balancey moves lead's to a large belay ledge. FA: Crazy_Pete & Kelsie Wamer, 2020 | 12m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Noah's Ark
start in the V below the small roof and climb the corner, when you reach the roof you have 3 options. break out left with little pro until you pull the edge of the roof. Head straight through the middle of the roof and into the thin crack above. Pull through the right side of the roof and enter the great crack system above. all options feel very similar and go at the same grade. FA: Mark Phillips, 1993 | 12m | |||
5.10d | ★★ Resurrection
Highball up the stiff slab and crimps to the diagonal seam, place as much pro as you feel will keep to safe, then launch up more slopers and crimpers to the top. there are no bolted anchors, except for a tree way back from the edge of the crag. If anyone wants to Retro bolt this one, go for it FA: Crazy_Pete, 2020 | 13m | |||
5.9 | Mr Bongles Ark
Climb The Delightful Mr. Bongles up to the diagonal seam then break out across it, finishing on Noah's Ark FA: Crazy_Pete, 2020 | 15m, 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ The Delightful Mr Bongles
Climb up the dihedral and follow the bolt line to the right. In 2020 a couple large flakes were removed lower down on the route changing the nature a bit. | 15m | |||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island East Sooke Park The Coliseum | |||||
5.9 | A Lust For Life | ||||
5.11b | Gladheateher | ||||
5.11d | ★★ M n M | ||||
5.12b | ★★★ Outrageous
First route to the left of the chimney. A fantastic route that has it all. Jugs, crimps, side pulls, and dynamic moves. | 20m, 6 | |||
5.10b | ★★ The Great Vise
Climb the obvious black chimney. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable, full-body climbing above. Fairly good pro protects you as you stem to chains. | ||||
5.13b | ★★★ Highway Robbery | ||||
5.13b/c | ★★ Sidelined
This line runs between Highway Robbery and Desperados. Climbs up four bolts to where it then links into the last bolt of the 13b Highway Robbery and finishes on shared anchor. Short and sweet power endurance crimp line. The hard moves are over when you arrive at the 4th bolt but don't blow clipping it! FA: Marcel Aarden, 9 Jul 2018 | 12m, 4 | |||
5.12d | ★★ Desperados | ||||
5.12b | ★★★ Pulp Friction
Furthest route to the right. Powerful through the middle, run out at up high, but the climbing is easy. | 5 | |||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag Dirt Stamp Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★ Going Solo
First climb on climbers left on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade. After putting in the anchors and running out of battery power for the drill, Seanathon decided to still send the route sans bolts. (Free Solo) FA: Seanathon, 24 Apr 2016 | 10m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★ Easy Does It
This is the second route, climber's right of Going Solo, on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade. FA: Seanathon, 24 Apr 2016 | 10m, 4 | |||
5.8 | ★★ Soft on Soft
Follow the black streak directly up and slightly left, staying left of bolt line. We should have named this one bolt ladder! A little miscommunication between myself and my bolting partner resulted in the abundance of bolts. A super great climb to learn to lead. FA: Seanathon, 21 Jun 2015 | 15m, 7 | |||
5.10c | ★★ The Bat
Retro bolted climb. Like the name says, there is one crux move at 5.10c. A fun route none the less. Found out this route was originally called "The Bat 5.10d" FA by Julian Mclean. It only had one bolt and no anchors. FA: Julian Mclean, 1992 | 30m, 5 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Sharing is Caring
It is climbers right of The Bat and shares its anchors. | ||||
5.8 | ★ Dirt Stamp
Props to Crystal for helping us clean this route and being the inspiration for the name of the climb. FA: Seanathon, 21 Jun 2015 | 16m, 7 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Dirty Looks Never Climbed So Clean
This climb starts climbers right of Dirt Stamp 5.8. If you do not have a long reach, then the first crux starts right off the ground while getting to the right hand jug (right of the first bolt). The crux continues until you clip the second draw and get over the first bulge. You then follow the crack system top the top of the wall. FA: Seanathon, 17 Aug 2018 | 6 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Deliciously Dirty
This climb starts climbers right of Dirty Looks Never Climbed So Clean 5.9+. The first crux starts right off the ground and continues until you clip the second draw and get over the first bulge. You then follow the line of bolts to top the top of the wall. FA: Seanathon, 23 Jun 2019 | 16m, 7 | |||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag Karate Kid Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Eight Litre Buckets
A really neat route that has big huecos on it from water runoff. FA: Seanathon, 20 Aug 2015 | 30m, 8 | |||
5.10a | ★★ Just a Bit of Crack
This route can be accessed by taking the right fork on the approach trail or from the Dirt Stamp Wall via the fixed line down to the Karate Kid Wall. Starts on black slabby rock, trend left to a bulge, then climb the thin crack up to the first set of anchors. Or climb past them and clip the Eight Litre Buckets’s anchors to get to the top of Dirt Stamp Wall. FA: Seanathon, 20 Aug 2015 | 30m, 8 | |||
5.9 | ★ Wax On
Some nice jugs to start on almost vertical wall before a slab finish. FA: Seanathon, 24 May 2015 | 12m, 7 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Wax Off
Starts on jugs to the right of Wax On. At the second bolt make a difficult move up and right, to the crack system under the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt and make some fun moves gets you through the overhang. You will now be on the ledge and about to start the technical crux before topping out. FA: Seanathon, 17 Sep 2018 | 7 | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Feel the Fingers
This climb starts 2 metres climbers left of Stop Waxing Off Direct 5.11a. The first 3 bolts have sustained bouldery moves, and then it relaxes to the top. Has anchor rings. FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 20 Jun 2019 | 13m, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Stop Waxing Off Direct
This is located climbers left of Stop Waxing Off. It goes straight up through to the SWO anchors. Some tricky bouldery moves down low, lead to a moderate top. FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 14 Oct 2018 | 6 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Stop Waxing Off
Furthest climb to climber's right on Karate Kid Wall. Burly overhang start to slab finish. The top is no longer runout as we added a 5th bolt. 9/23/18 FA: Seanathon, 22 May 2015 | 30m, 5 | |||
5.10b | ★★ When the Sensei is Away, the Boys Will Play
This climb is climber’s right of Stop Waxing Off. It starts on a big jug down and right of the first bolt and climbs left up a series of good holds until a tricky set of moves below the mini roof sets you up for a fun mantel. Finish directly above using the big flake or the crack system. FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 6 Oct 2018 | 5 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ K Squared Beer Patrol!
This climb is climber’s right of When the Sensei is Away the Boys Will Play 5.10b. Start this climb on the large jug and climb up and left or up and right past the first bolt. When you get to the large head wall near the top, try to go straight up and over for a real challenge. FA: Seanathon & Marcus, 8 May 2019 | 32m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★★★ The Cherry on Top
This climb is climber’s right of K Squared Beer Patrol 5.10b. Start this climb on the large flake sidepull jug and climb up. FA: Seanathon & Marcus, 30 May 2019 | 30m, 8 | |||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag Upper Karate Kid Wall | |||||
5.8 | ★★ Climbing in Someone Else's Shoes
You access this climb from the big anchor ledge of Karate Kid Wall. It begins above and to the right of the anchors of Wax Off 5.11b. It is the first climb to get to the highest point of the Glen Lake Crags. It can be accessed as a second pitch from any of the Karate Kid Wall climbs. FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 14 Apr 2019 | 70m, 8 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Just the Toes
Access this route from the anchors of Stop Waxing Off 5.10d. To make the FA’s fair, Seanathon wore Marcus’s climbing shoes. But he could only fit his feet in half way. So, he climbed the route for the FA using just the tips of his toes. FA: Marcus & Seanathon, 2 May 2019 | 21m, 9 | |||
5.8 | ★★ One Eyed Raven
Access this route from the anchors of When the Sensei is Away, the Boys Will Play 5.10b. A tricky start leads to chill slab climbing. While doing one final brush before the FA’s Seanathon knocked a bunch of dirt in his eyes and climbed this route with 1 eye closed. FA: Seanathon & Marcus, 2 May 2019 | 23m, 9 | |||
5.6 | ★ Full Work Attire
Access this route from the Karate Kid Ledge. It is to the right of One Eyed Raven 5.8 A really neat undercling start, leads to juggy slab climbing. It ends a couple metres before the top of the crag at a flat vertical wall. Or you can finish on One Eyed Raven 5.8 by ignoring the anchors and clipping the last 2 bolts of O.E.R. FA: Marcus Lacroix & Seanathon, 5 May 2019 | 20m, 8 | |||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag Shake-a-Flake Wall | |||||
5.10a R | Been Burned
Leftmost route (tree anchor) FA: Tim McAllister in the 80-90's? | ||||
5.9 R | Wondering
Old rusty bolts and anchors. Looks unsafe and will need a retro bolt. FA: Unknown 1980-90's? | 4 | |||
A2 R | N.T.C.D.S.I.B
Loose, everything here is loose. FA: Stuart Wosney & Julian McLean 80-90’s | ||||
A2+ R | Don’t Bother
Bolted anchors. FA: Steve Janes, 2018 | 8m, 1 | |||
Vancouver Island South Vancouver Island Glen Lake Crag Glen Lake Crag The Umbrage Wall | |||||
5.7 | ★ More Crack Please
Traverse in from the trail to get to the start of this line. Some nice jug climbing gets you up to a small, beautiful crack that we wished went from the bottom of the route to the top. It is the first line bolted on this wall. FA: Seanathon & Marcus Lacroix, 21 Oct 2018 | 5 | |||
5.6 | ★★ High on Jugs?
• The furthest most line on the right-hand side of the wall. Start on the large V rails and make your way up a series of big rails to the top. FA: Seanathon, 15 Apr 2019 | 8m, 5 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Triton's Fork
Easier going left at the bulge. Graded 5.11+ in the guidebook. FA: Mark Steffen & Derek Woods | 16m | |||
5.10b | Beached Whale
This climb is a bit of an eliminate. To keep the 10b grade climb directly up the face without using the arete or making your way to left ledge out to the left and mantel the first boulder. Then continue to the top. FA: Seanathon, 16 Jun 2019 | 5 |