Routes in British Columbia

Farthest (Climbers) Left anchors, tricky start, walk off.

Big crack to the right of Wiggin Nark, 2nd set of anchors from climbers left

Slightly right of Mungle Crack, thin crack and small shelves for your feet. 3rd set of anchors from climbers left

Farthest climb on the right, follow the big crack right to a ledge, then head left towards the anchor.

Located around 100 meters to the left of Whale Power

is a sport route (can be done as a mixed/trad route)

a couple meters to the right of Abbey Road

when approaching the crag, instead of taking the right trail take the left trail to the base of this climb

Climb past one bolt, and into the crack system above the overhang.

a small amount of face climbing leads to a superb right-leaning finger crack that will eat your passive gear!

Stiff moves on some small hold’s off the deck lead to easier climbing above, bring your stick clip! Forgetful Chirs joins The Happy Foot Doctor at its 3’d bolt.

Start on the right side of the tree and crack through crimps and slopers up to the horizontal seam, then break out left on trad gear to the crack that forms the upper bit of White Hot Matter.

When you hit the horizontal seam on The Happy Foot Doctor, continue straight up following the line of bolts. some balancey moves lead's to a large belay ledge.

start in the V below the small roof and climb the corner, when you reach the roof you have 3 options. break out left with little pro until you pull the edge of the roof. Head straight through the middle of the roof and into the thin crack above. Pull through the right side of the roof and enter the great crack system above.

all options feel very similar and go at the same grade.

Highball up the stiff slab and crimps to the diagonal seam, place as much pro as you feel will keep to safe, then launch up more slopers and crimpers to the top. there are no bolted anchors, except for a tree way back from the edge of the crag. If anyone wants to Retro bolt this one, go for it

Climb The Delightful Mr. Bongles up to the diagonal seam then break out across it, finishing on Noah's Ark

Climb up the dihedral and follow the bolt line to the right. In 2020 a couple large flakes were removed lower down on the route changing the nature a bit.

First route to the left of the chimney. A fantastic route that has it all. Jugs, crimps, side pulls, and dynamic moves.

Climb the obvious black chimney. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable, full-body climbing above. Fairly good pro protects you as you stem to chains.

This line runs between Highway Robbery and Desperados. Climbs up four bolts to where it then links into the last bolt of the 13b Highway Robbery and finishes on shared anchor. Short and sweet power endurance crimp line. The hard moves are over when you arrive at the 4th bolt but don't blow clipping it!

Furthest route to the right. Powerful through the middle, run out at up high, but the climbing is easy.

First climb on climbers left on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade. After putting in the anchors and running out of battery power for the drill, Seanathon decided to still send the route sans bolts. (Free Solo)

This is the second route, climber's right of Going Solo, on Dirt Stamp Wall. Short and crimpy for the grade.

Follow the black streak directly up and slightly left, staying left of bolt line. We should have named this one bolt ladder! A little miscommunication between myself and my bolting partner resulted in the abundance of bolts. A super great climb to learn to lead.

Retro bolted climb. Like the name says, there is one crux move at 5.10c. A fun route none the less.

Found out this route was originally called "The Bat 5.10d" FA by Julian Mclean. It only had one bolt and no anchors.

It is climbers right of The Bat and shares its anchors.

Props to Crystal for helping us clean this route and being the inspiration for the name of the climb.

This climb starts climbers right of Dirt Stamp 5.8. If you do not have a long reach, then the first crux starts right off the ground while getting to the right hand jug (right of the first bolt). The crux continues until you clip the second draw and get over the first bulge. You then follow the crack system top the top of the wall.

This climb starts climbers right of Dirty Looks Never Climbed So Clean 5.9+. The first crux starts right off the ground and continues until you clip the second draw and get over the first bulge. You then follow the line of bolts to top the top of the wall.

A really neat route that has big huecos on it from water runoff.

This route can be accessed by taking the right fork on the approach trail or from the Dirt Stamp Wall via the fixed line down to the Karate Kid Wall. Starts on black slabby rock, trend left to a bulge, then climb the thin crack up to the first set of anchors. Or climb past them and clip the Eight Litre Buckets’s anchors to get to the top of Dirt Stamp Wall.

Some nice jugs to start on almost vertical wall before a slab finish.

Starts on jugs to the right of Wax On. At the second bolt make a difficult move up and right, to the crack system under the overhang, clip the 3rd bolt and make some fun moves gets you through the overhang. You will now be on the ledge and about to start the technical crux before topping out.

This climb starts 2 metres climbers left of Stop Waxing Off Direct 5.11a. The first 3 bolts have sustained bouldery moves, and then it relaxes to the top. Has anchor rings.

This is located climbers left of Stop Waxing Off. It goes straight up through to the SWO anchors. Some tricky bouldery moves down low, lead to a moderate top.

Furthest climb to climber's right on Karate Kid Wall. Burly overhang start to slab finish. The top is no longer runout as we added a 5th bolt. 9/23/18

This climb is climber’s right of Stop Waxing Off. It starts on a big jug down and right of the first bolt and climbs left up a series of good holds until a tricky set of moves below the mini roof sets you up for a fun mantel. Finish directly above using the big flake or the crack system.

This climb is climber’s right of When the Sensei is Away the Boys Will Play 5.10b. Start this climb on the large jug and climb up and left or up and right past the first bolt. When you get to the large head wall near the top, try to go straight up and over for a real challenge.

This climb is climber’s right of K Squared Beer Patrol 5.10b. Start this climb on the large flake sidepull jug and climb up.

You access this climb from the big anchor ledge of Karate Kid Wall. It begins above and to the right of the anchors of Wax Off 5.11b. It is the first climb to get to the highest point of the Glen Lake Crags. It can be accessed as a second pitch from any of the Karate Kid Wall climbs.

Access this route from the anchors of Stop Waxing Off 5.10d. To make the FA’s fair, Seanathon wore Marcus’s climbing shoes. But he could only fit his feet in half way. So, he climbed the route for the FA using just the tips of his toes.

Access this route from the anchors of When the Sensei is Away, the Boys Will Play 5.10b. A tricky start leads to chill slab climbing. While doing one final brush before the FA’s Seanathon knocked a bunch of dirt in his eyes and climbed this route with 1 eye closed.

Access this route from the Karate Kid Ledge. It is to the right of One Eyed Raven 5.8 A really neat undercling start, leads to juggy slab climbing. It ends a couple metres before the top of the crag at a flat vertical wall. Or you can finish on One Eyed Raven 5.8 by ignoring the anchors and clipping the last 2 bolts of O.E.R.

Leftmost route (tree anchor)

Old rusty bolts and anchors. Looks unsafe and will need a retro bolt.

Loose, everything here is loose.

Bolted anchors.

Traverse in from the trail to get to the start of this line. Some nice jug climbing gets you up to a small, beautiful crack that we wished went from the bottom of the route to the top. It is the first line bolted on this wall.

• The furthest most line on the right-hand side of the wall. Start on the large V rails and make your way up a series of big rails to the top.

Easier going left at the bulge. Graded 5.11+ in the guidebook.

This climb is a bit of an eliminate. To keep the 10b grade climb directly up the face without using the arete or making your way to left ledge out to the left and mantel the first boulder. Then continue to the top.