A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Gord Olivier GK Jaime Beecroft Caden Armstrong Vasily Ryabov Conor MacDonald Raymond Kam Umer wolfrock Gavin Smith
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Buffalo Crag 92 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Buffalo Crag 92 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 43.471625, -79.927004
description
Routes are ordered from climbers left to right (west to east). At the bottom of the cliff there are numbers (faintly) painted every 10m with dots located at 5m. Many of these are now hard to see or were painted on rock which has now fallen off.
access issues
In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/
The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .
approach
Located at the Rattlesnake Point Conservation area. From the lower parking lot take the trail towards the cliff turn right to head west. Alternatively, take the Buffalo Crag Trail which heads directly west from the south end of the parking lot. Hike either trail for about 20 minutes until you reach a look-out point with benches and signs. Just past this area is the 'Easy Way Down'.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Which Way Now
Starts at number 0. | 5.6 | ||||||
2 |
★★ End Game
Start at 3m. | 5.7 | ||||||
3 | ★ Sunsplash | 5.9 | ||||||
4 |
★★★ Flying Kiwi
Start at 10m. | 5.8 | ||||||
5 |
The Prow
Start at 11m. | 5.8 | ||||||
6 |
Georger Pecans
Start at 13m. | 5.10b | ||||||
7 |
Hyper Extension
Start at 15m. | 5.11a | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Thin Series
Start at 15m. | 5.8 | ||||||
9 |
★ Green Thumb
Start at 17m | 5.6 | ||||||
10 |
★ Unknown
Start at 30m. | 5.6 | 23m | |||||
11 |
★ Autumn Finale
Start at 33m. | 5.3 | ||||||
12 |
★ Jetsam
Start at 37m. Climb up up the open book. | 5.3 | 23m | |||||
13 |
But...It Was Only a Tree
Start at 39m. | 5.8 | ||||||
14 |
★ Fear or Flying
Start at 41m. | 5.8 | ||||||
15 |
★ British Faggots
Start at 41m. | 5.5 | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 |
★★ Piece of Duff
Start at 44m. Climb up the obvious crack to a fixed nut under a small roof. Move left out from under the roof and continue up on easier terrain. | 5.5 | ||||||
17 | ★ Staircase | 5.0 | ||||||
18 | ★★ Baby Face | 5.9 | ||||||
19 | Crank if You Love Jesus | 5.11a | ||||||
20 |
★★ Girdle Traverse
A long face traverse which starts on the belay ledge of 'Baby Face' and finishes on 'Sunshine'. Hanging belay on 'Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands', belay ledge on 'Boa Constrictor' and on 'Abyss'. | 5.9 | ||||||
21 |
★★ Flying Squirrel
Start at 73m. | 5.8 | ||||||
22 |
The Field Marshal's Hangover
Start at 78m. | 5.9 | ||||||
23 |
★★ Goldmund
Start at 80m. | 5.7 | ||||||
24 | Marzipan | 5.8 | ||||||
25 |
Narcis
Start at 80m. | 5.6 | ||||||
26 |
Jungle Vines
Start at 84m. | 5.8 | ||||||
27 |
Pain Ingot
Starts at 88m | 5.9 | ||||||
28 |
★ Serration
The location of this route is unclear from the guidebooks. Probably starts around 92m and follows some lieback flakes up to a roof, then moves right and up from there to the right of the tree. | 5.10 | ||||||
29 |
★★ Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands
Starts at 95m | 5.10d | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
30 |
★★ Rainy Day Woman
Starts at 98m. Climbs the obvious cracks through two roofs, heading up and left. Very fun and very sustained. | 5.9 | 22m | |||||
31 |
Phenothiazine
Starts at 100m. | 5.10c | ||||||
32 | Lycra Test | 5.11c | ||||||
33 |
★ Know Your Rights
Start in the corner under the large roof with a bolt on the right and piton on the left. Move up and right, crank the roof past the bolt on good (but hard to see) holds. Continue straight up on easy terrain, following 'Knight's Move' to the top. | 5.11c | 1 | |||||
34 |
Summer Brave / Some are Brave
Starts at 105m. | 5.10d | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
35 |
★ Orange Wall Direct
Start at 106m. Direct start to Orange wall, staying left of the 2nd bolt. Either connect up with Orange wall (5.10B) or stay left towards the giant boulder (that looks like it'll fall off) to finish up Summer Brave (5.10C) | 5.10b | 22m | |||||
36 |
★★ Orange Wall
Starts at 110m. Start 6m right of the direct start. Follow the two bols that are veering left and then aim straight up after the second bolt. Fantastic climbing. | 5.9 | 22m | |||||
37 |
★ Knight's Move
Starts at 110m. Heads up about 5m, then moves well left to a left-facing corner above a large roof and continues to the top. | 5.7 | ||||||
38 |
★ Skywalker
Start at 110m. | 5.7 | ||||||
39 |
Nervous System
Start at 112m. | 5.9 | ||||||
40 |
★★ Boa Constrictor
Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment. | 5.4 | ||||||
41 |
Reject Direct
Start at 116m. | 5.8 | ||||||
42 | ★ Veg | 5.2 | ||||||
43 |
★ Veg Direct
Start at 116m. | 5.8 | ||||||
44 |
Shakey Flakey
Start to the right of Veg Direct. | 5.3 | ||||||
45 |
★ Operation Evaporation
Start at 125m | 5.10b | ||||||
46 | The Go-Between | 5.11 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
47 |
★★ Abyss
Start at 131m. Strenuous start off the poor-landing boulders, following the layback cracks and small roofs to the dark corner of the big roof. Make your way around the big rock for a slabby finish on grippy rock. | 5.10b | 22m | |||||
48 | ★ Hydroseal | 5.9 | ||||||
49 |
★★ Sunshine
Start at 138m. | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
50 |
Durley's Return
Start at 142m. | 5.4 | ||||||
51 |
★ Bob's Your Uncle
Start at 145m. | 5.7 | ||||||
52 |
The Coke
Start at 145m. Climb up to the right. | 5.2 | 20m | |||||
53 | Apple Crumble | 5.4 | ||||||
54 |
Easy Way Down
The easy descent located just west of the Buffalo Crag lookout. | Class 4 | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
55 |
★ Warm Up
Start at 172m, Perpendicular to main cliff face. Good holds and minimal exposure. | 5.2 | 12m | |||||
56 |
Simian Swing
Start at 175m. | 5.8 | ||||||
57 |
U of T Special
Start at 177m. | 5.6 | ||||||
58 |
Trillium
Start at 178m. | 5.4 | ||||||
59 |
Tree Jam
Start at 182m. | 5.4 | ||||||
60 |
Mayflower
Start at 188m. | 5.3 | ||||||
61 |
Turkey
Start at 213m. | 5.1 | ||||||
62 | Fancisco's Memorial Traverse | 5.9 | 3 | |||||
63 |
★★ Calhoun
Start at 200m. | 5.4 | ||||||
64 |
★ Brain Salad Surgery
Start at 205m. | 5.10c | ||||||
65 |
★ Smartsinutab
Start at 206m. | 5.9 | ||||||
66 |
The Sting
Start at 208m. | 5.7 | ||||||
67 |
Reunion
Start at 210m. | 5.8 | ||||||
68 | The Dodger | 5.6 | ||||||
69 |
The Shield
Start at 215m. | 5.9 | ||||||
70 |
Silly Face
Start at 217m. | 5.8 | ||||||
71 | ★★ Super Duper | 5.6 | ||||||
72 |
Super Dave's Last Stunt
Start at 222m. | 5.8 | ||||||
73 | ★★ Reservoir | 5.5 | ||||||
74 |
Ragusa
Start at 229m. | 5.6 | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
75 | ★★ Yoyo | 5.4 | ||||||
76 |
★ Sperber
Start at 237m. | 5.6 | ||||||
77 | Orc | 5.6 | ||||||
78 | Nivek | 5.9 | ||||||
79 |
Sandman
Start at 247m. | 5.9 | ||||||
80 | Dune | 5.8 | ||||||
81 |
★ Cedar
Start at 252m. | 5.6 | ||||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
82 |
★★ Tapestry
Start at 257m. Up the glossy holds towards the crack. Follow the crack to the chimney behind the huge flake. Make your way up the chimney and follow the crack to the top. | 5.9 | 13m | |||||
83 |
★ Angel Drawers Direct
Start at the "5" painted on the rock. Avoids both "Tapestry" and "Angel Drawers" up to the final crack. Direct up on big boulders and up the muddy dark crack, followed by a transition to the crack just right of "Tapestry" at the roof. Big moves up two ledges to finish up the "Angel Drawers" final crack. Pretty fun and a bit harder than "Angel Drawers. Probably has been climbed before, and may have a different name, but it's not in the guide book. Top roped so unsure about trad/gear placement. | 5.10c | 13m | |||||
84 |
★ Angel Drawers
Start at 260m. Follow the crack on black rock along the dihedral and up around the the right of the roof to avoid it, then once over the roof, make your way back left towards the obvious crack to the top. | 5.10b | 13m | |||||
85 | ★ Pickle Puss | 5.5 | ||||||
86 | Ramble | 5.4 | ||||||
87 |
Second Time Lucky
Start at 267m. | 5.5 | ||||||
88 |
Desperation Mantle
Start at 270m. | 5.7 | ||||||
89 |
Desperation Exit
Start at 273m. | 5.9 | ||||||
90 | Stony End | 5.10b | ||||||
91 |
Chili and Double Toast
Start at 275m. | 5.6 | ||||||
92 |
Brown Pop
Start at 277m. | 5.4 |