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Buffalo Crag Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Gord Jaime Beecroft Caden Armstrong Vasily Ryabov Conor MacDonald Raymond Kam Umer wolfrock Gavin Smith

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Buffalo Crag 92 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.471625, -79.927004

description

Routes are ordered from climbers left to right (west to east). At the bottom of the cliff there are numbers (faintly) painted every 10m with dots located at 5m. Many of these are now hard to see or were painted on rock which has now fallen off.

access issues

In the more populated areas of Ontario, especially southern and south-western Ontario (within a few hours drive of Toronto) access is often complicated, with many cliffs closed to climbing. The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) monitors this, and negotiates for access to cliffs, or to avoid closures. They maintain a crag status list at: https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/crag-status/

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Forestry also maintains an online crown land use policy atlas. This can often be used to determine the ownership status of the land on which a cliff is located in Ontario. It can be found at: http://www.giscoeapp.lrc.gov.on.ca/web/MNR/NHLUPS/CLUPA/Viewer/Viewer.html .

inherited from Ontario

approach

Located at the Rattlesnake Point Conservation area. From the lower parking lot take the trail towards the cliff turn right to head west. Alternatively, take the Buffalo Crag Trail which heads directly west from the south end of the parking lot. Hike either trail for about 20 minutes until you reach a look-out point with benches and signs. Just past this area is the 'Easy Way Down'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Which Way Now

Starts at number 0.

5.6 Trad
2 End Game

Start at 3m.

5.7 Trad
3 Sunsplash 5.9 Trad
4 Flying Kiwi

Start at 10m.

5.8 Trad
5 The Prow

Start at 11m.

5.8 Trad
6 Georger Pecans

Start at 13m.

5.10b Trad
7 Hyper Extension

Start at 15m.

5.11a Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Thin Series

Start at 15m.

5.8 Trad
9 Green Thumb

Start at 17m

5.6 Trad
10 Unknown

Start at 30m.

5.6 Trad 23m
11 Autumn Finale

Start at 33m.

5.3 Trad
12 Jetsam

Start at 37m. Climb up up the open book.

5.3 Trad 23m
13 But...It Was Only a Tree

Start at 39m.

5.8 Trad
14 Fear or Flying

Start at 41m.

5.8 Trad
15 British Faggots

Start at 41m.

5.5 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 Piece of Duff

Start at 44m. Climb up the obvious crack to a fixed nut under a small roof. Move left out from under the roof and continue up on easier terrain.

5.5 Trad
17 Staircase 5.0 Trad
18 Baby Face 5.9 Trad
19 Crank if You Love Jesus 5.11a Trad
20 Girdle Traverse

A long face traverse which starts on the belay ledge of 'Baby Face' and finishes on 'Sunshine'. Hanging belay on 'Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands', belay ledge on 'Boa Constrictor' and on 'Abyss'.

5.9 Trad
21 Flying Squirrel

Start at 73m.

5.8 Trad
22 The Field Marshal's Hangover

Start at 78m.

5.9 Trad
23 Goldmund

Start at 80m.

5.7 Trad
24 Marzipan 5.8 Trad
25 Narcis

Start at 80m.

5.6 Trad
26 Jungle Vines

Start at 84m.

5.8 Trad
27 Pain Ingot

Starts at 88m

5.9 Trad
28 Serration

The location of this route is unclear from the guidebooks. Probably starts around 92m and follows some lieback flakes up to a roof, then moves right and up from there to the right of the tree.

5.10 Trad
29 Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands

Starts at 95m

5.10d Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 Rainy Day Woman

Starts at 98m. Climbs the obvious cracks through two roofs, heading up and left. Very fun and very sustained.

5.9 Trad 22m
31 Phenothiazine

Starts at 100m.

5.10c Trad
32 Lycra Test 5.11c Trad
33 Know Your Rights

Start in the corner under the large roof with a bolt on the right and piton on the left. Move up and right, crank the roof past the bolt on good (but hard to see) holds. Continue straight up on easy terrain, following 'Knight's Move' to the top.

5.11c Mixed trad 1
34 Summer Brave / Some are Brave

Starts at 105m.

5.10d Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
35 Orange Wall Direct

Start at 106m. Direct start to Orange wall, staying left of the 2nd bolt. Either connect up with Orange wall (5.10B) or stay left towards the giant boulder (that looks like it'll fall off) to finish up Summer Brave (5.10C)

5.10b Trad 22m
36 Orange Wall

Starts at 110m. Start 6m right of the direct start. Follow the two bols that are veering left and then aim straight up after the second bolt. Fantastic climbing.

5.9 Trad 22m
37 Knight's Move

Starts at 110m. Heads up about 5m, then moves well left to a left-facing corner above a large roof and continues to the top.

5.7 Trad
38 Skywalker

Start at 110m.

5.7 Trad
39 Nervous System

Start at 112m.

5.9 Trad
40 Boa Constrictor

Starts at 113m. Climbs the obvious offwidth/chimney, then head right to the top. One of the very few offwidth/chimney climbs on the Escarpment.

5.4 Trad
41 Reject Direct

Start at 116m.

5.8 Trad
42 Veg 5.2 Trad
43 Veg Direct

Start at 116m.

5.8 Trad
44 Shakey Flakey

Start to the right of Veg Direct.

5.3 Trad
45 Operation Evaporation

Start at 125m

5.10b Trad
46 The Go-Between 5.11 Top rope
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
47 Abyss

Start at 131m. Strenuous start off the poor-landing boulders, following the layback cracks and small roofs to the dark corner of the big roof. Make your way around the big rock for a slabby finish on grippy rock.

5.10b Trad 22m
48 Hydroseal 5.9 Trad
49 Sunshine

Start at 138m.

5.7 Trad 25m
50 Durley's Return

Start at 142m.

5.4 Trad
51 Bob's Your Uncle

Start at 145m.

5.7 Trad
52 The Coke

Start at 145m. Climb up to the right.

5.2 Trad 20m
53 Apple Crumble 5.4 Trad
54 Easy Way Down

The easy descent located just west of the Buffalo Crag lookout.

Class 4 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
55 Warm Up

Start at 172m, Perpendicular to main cliff face. Good holds and minimal exposure.

5.2 Trad 12m
56 Simian Swing

Start at 175m.

5.8 Trad
57 U of T Special

Start at 177m.

5.6 Trad
58 Trillium

Start at 178m.

5.4 Trad
59 Tree Jam

Start at 182m.

5.4 Trad
60 Mayflower

Start at 188m.

5.3 Trad
61 Turkey

Start at 213m.

5.1 Trad
62 Fancisco's Memorial Traverse 5.9 Trad 3
63 Calhoun

Start at 200m.

5.4 Trad
64 Brain Salad Surgery

Start at 205m.

5.10c Trad
65 Smartsinutab

Start at 206m.

5.9 Trad
66 The Sting

Start at 208m.

5.7 Trad
67 Reunion

Start at 210m.

5.8 Trad
68 The Dodger 5.6 Trad
69 The Shield

Start at 215m.

5.9 Trad
70 Silly Face

Start at 217m.

5.8 Trad
71 Super Duper 5.6 Trad
72 Super Dave's Last Stunt

Start at 222m.

5.8 Trad
73 Reservoir 5.5 Trad
74 Ragusa

Start at 229m.

5.6 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
75 Yoyo 5.4 Trad
76 Sperber

Start at 237m.

5.6 Trad
77 Orc 5.6 Trad
78 Nivek 5.9 Trad
79 Sandman

Start at 247m.

5.9 Trad
80 Dune 5.8 Trad
81 Cedar

Start at 252m.

5.6 Trad
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
82 Tapestry

Start at 257m. Up the glossy holds towards the crack. Follow the crack to the chimney behind the huge flake. Make your way up the chimney and follow the crack to the top.

5.9 Trad 13m
83 Angel Drawers Direct

Start at the "5" painted on the rock. Avoids both "Tapestry" and "Angel Drawers" up to the final crack.

Direct up on big boulders and up the muddy dark crack, followed by a transition to the crack just right of "Tapestry" at the roof. Big moves up two ledges to finish up the "Angel Drawers" final crack.

Pretty fun and a bit harder than "Angel Drawers. Probably has been climbed before, and may have a different name, but it's not in the guide book. Top roped so unsure about trad/gear placement.

5.10c Top rope 13m
84 Angel Drawers

Start at 260m. Follow the crack on black rock along the dihedral and up around the the right of the roof to avoid it, then once over the roof, make your way back left towards the obvious crack to the top.

5.10b Trad 13m
85 Pickle Puss 5.5 Trad
86 Ramble 5.4 Trad
87 Second Time Lucky

Start at 267m.

5.5 Trad
88 Desperation Mantle

Start at 270m.

5.7 Trad
89 Desperation Exit

Start at 273m.

5.9 Trad
90 Stony End 5.10b Trad
91 Chili and Double Toast

Start at 275m.

5.6 Trad
92 Brown Pop

Start at 277m.

5.4 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
Class 4 Easy Way Down Trad
5.0 Staircase Trad
5.1 Turkey Trad
5.2 The Coke Trad 20m
Veg Trad
Warm Up Trad 12m
5.3 Autumn Finale Trad
Jetsam Trad 23m
Mayflower Trad
Shakey Flakey Trad
5.4 Apple Crumble Trad
Boa Constrictor Trad
Brown Pop Trad
Calhoun Trad
Durley's Return Trad
Ramble Trad
Tree Jam Trad
Trillium Trad
Yoyo Trad
5.5 British Faggots Trad
Pickle Puss Trad
Piece of Duff Trad
Reservoir Trad
Second Time Lucky Trad
5.6 Cedar Trad
Chili and Double Toast Trad
Green Thumb Trad
Narcis Trad
Orc Trad
Ragusa Trad
Sperber Trad
Super Duper Trad
The Dodger Trad
U of T Special Trad
Unknown Trad 23m
Which Way Now Trad
5.7 Bob's Your Uncle Trad
Desperation Mantle Trad
End Game Trad
Goldmund Trad
Knight's Move Trad
Skywalker Trad
Sunshine Trad 25m
The Sting Trad
5.8 But...It Was Only a Tree Trad
Dune Trad
Fear or Flying Trad
Flying Kiwi Trad
Flying Squirrel Trad
Jungle Vines Trad
Marzipan Trad
Reject Direct Trad
Reunion Trad
Silly Face Trad
Simian Swing Trad
Super Dave's Last Stunt Trad
The Prow Trad
Thin Series Trad
Veg Direct Trad
5.9 Baby Face Trad
Desperation Exit Trad
Fancisco's Memorial Traverse Trad 3
Girdle Traverse Trad
Hydroseal Trad
Nervous System Trad
Nivek Trad
Orange Wall Trad 22m
Pain Ingot Trad
Rainy Day Woman Trad 22m
Sandman Trad
Smartsinutab Trad
Sunsplash Trad
Tapestry Trad 13m
The Field Marshal's Hangover Trad
The Shield Trad
5.10b Abyss Trad 22m
Angel Drawers Trad 13m
Georger Pecans Trad
Operation Evaporation Trad
Orange Wall Direct Trad 22m
Stony End Trad
5.10c Angel Drawers Direct Top rope 13m
Brain Salad Surgery Trad
Phenothiazine Trad
5.10 Serration Trad
5.10d Sad Eyed Lady of the Lowlands Trad
Summer Brave Trad
5.11a Crank if You Love Jesus Trad
Hyper Extension Trad
5.11c Know Your Rights Mixed trad 1
Lycra Test Trad
5.11 The Go-Between Top rope
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