Ascents in Bugaboos

Wow! What a fantastic route. The crux would probably get a 19 at Frog buttress back home and is super fun. The 4th pitch is no doubt the best pitch of climbing I have ever done in the mountains, twin cracks pulling a small roof into a splitter hands corner to another roof. Amazingly delightful! Stoked I got to lead both of those pitches We banged this out early as weather was predicted to come in and we figured if it held we could get another route done. Climbed in 2.5hrs however the rain started at 10:30am rather than 6pm. This is the mountians!

Brendan and I both wanted to do this because 1) It's classic and 2) we both want to bring our fiances up here to experience this. Simul-climbed the whole thing in 2 hours col to col in our mountaineering boots. Super fun and great views the whole day.

Super classic line. Done in 10hrs camp to camp with Brendan. We pitched the approach scramble in the dark as we were not sure if we were in the right place. Pitched the first 3 and then simul-climbed to the top in 2 blocks. The summit traverse is fun and exposed and the descent is nice. Such a great route and a good first one for the Bugs! Stoked

Half day after bailing on Surfs up. I think we got off route because it got hella Airy. Some fun climbing around the gendarme

Good Warmup day Climb. Direct Start goes at 5.8

Retreat on Pitch 2. Was still very wet

Down Climbed as part of East Post Traverse

Fun taper day scramble. Simul climbed in approach shoes. Linked with Northwest ridge for the East Post Traverse

Kicked my Ass. Got some Sweet booty and went back for the redpoint

So so close on the splitter pitch! Fat fingers don't help on this one. I will be back.

Incredible.

Get up early to beat all the people who should not be climbing the route. OR leave camp 5 hours after them.

Dirty cracks, doesn't get climbed a lot. But fun climbing in a good, slightly exposed position!

Pitches 1, 2, 4, and 5 are incredible!

Best route I have ever climbed!

Incredible route. Climbed to roof then rapped. Hope to return sometime!

Tricky OW!

Amazing position. We did a couple of the variant pitches to pass a party.

The aid pitch is strange but 10d approx.

Climbed the route car to car in 15 hours

Would probably be better regarded were it a anywhere but the bugaboos. Not a great route but good and close to camp.

P1 Direct is a better time. P2, P4, and P5 are some of the nicest granite crack pitches I've ever done. Spectacular! Definitely botched the descent with Scott, got lost and wandered the backside of Crescent for 2 hours before getting back where we came down off the free hanging rap. Still awesome.

First 2 pitches were runout adventures, the pitches off the ledge are incredible, especially the splitter hand crack 1000' off the glacier.

Solo'd with Scott, unbelievable day. Smiles for miles!

First free ascent of the direct A3 aid variant.

So epic! 17 hr day camp to camp. 13 pitches

Sweet as! Really good climbing but too bad it doesn't climb a spire 2nd and 4th pitches are gems. Bailed off top of 5th because of the thunder