Showing all 39 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Snowpatch Spire | |||||
5.8 | ★★★ The Snowpatch Route | 600m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Sunshine Crack
FA: Alex Lowe & S Scott | 370m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ surfs up
1
5.8
2
5.8
3
5.9
4
5.7
5
5.9
6
5.8
7
5.7
P1: Climb 30-40m over left leaning flakes to a promoniant horn to belay, Just below where the Dihedral becomes more pronounced. P2: Follow the second overlap of the steepening dihedral for 40m to a flake belay. P3: the crux pitch, Continue up the dihedral for 25m, stem left and pull a cruxy move onto a sandy ramp, climb 5m up to an alcove belay P4: Mantle to the second big ledge then climp up and right over a block to gain a solid ledge. climb down and right to gain surfs up ledge. belay at the far end. P5:Follow the obvious face crack off the ledge, pull over an awkward block and belay at 30m P6: climb 5.8 jams to a pedistal belay at 30m P7: follow 20m of 5.7 cracks to gain a boulder on the ridge crest, belay here. scramble the ridge crest to the summit then descent off the Kraus-McCarthy Rap Route | 350m, 7 | |||
Bugaboo Spire | |||||
5.8 | ★★★ Northeast Ridge
FA: Dave Craft, David Isles, Richard Sykes & John Turner, 1958 FA: Joe Buszowski & Bernhard Ehmann, 1985 | 600m | |||
5.6 | ★★★ Kain Route
FA: Conrad Kain, Albert, Beth MacCarthy & John Vincent, 1916 | 450m | |||
Crescent Spire | |||||
5.4 | ★ West Ridge
Follow the snow up the col (Bugaboo-Cressent) to it's highest point. Climb up a left-facing slab (in the left corner is the best rock) while not letting yourself get tempted by the many cracks heading left from the slab. There are three bolted anchors on this route although most parties either climb up (left) too early. Simul-climbing or soloing this is common to get to NE ridge of Bugaboo. Descent: Walk along the ridge to the McTech descent route. The first anchor is on a steeper wall (facing S-O) above the main dihedral corner of the area. It might be hard to spot. Rappel with either a 70m rope or double 60m. | 150m, 3 | |||
5.10b | ★★★ Paddle Flake | 220m | |||
5.10- | Westside Story
Starts 10m left of Mctech Aerete. P1 5.10a Up left facing corner, and wide cracks up onto face. Belay at horizontal crack with ledge P2 5.10a Up wide face cracks to bolted anchor P3 5.8 Up and left on thin gear then head up right onto slab into the back of the amphitheatre. Bolted anchor. P4 5.8traverse left in flaky cracks, up. left around corner into wide crack and up this to belay on pedestal. P5 5.9 directly up crack, up steep crack above (ignore bolts on left) up offwidth crack then easier climbing to bolted anchor. P6 5.7 as per last pitch of McTech Aerete | 6 | |||
5.10- | ★★★ McTech Arete
1
5.9
35m
2
5.10-
35m
3
5.4
15m
4
5.9
35m
5
5.8
35m
6
5.7
30m
This climb sees the most traffic out of all moderate climbs in the area. With a relatively short approach, bolted anchors, and a bolted rap line, this is one of the least committing climbs in the bugs. Approach: From Appleby camp, head up the north moraine (behind the water tap) and navigate left of the first lake, up and around the right of the second lake. The climb you're looking for is in the obvious dihedral on the arete of the crescent spire.
Descent: Either walk east to find the descent gully between the crescent spire and crescent towers or rappel the McTech rappel line. McTech rappel line: From the anchor of pitch 5, make 6 single rope rappels to the ground or 4 double rope rappels. From the ridge, find a bolted anchor about 20m up and (climber's) left from the anchor of pitch 5. Note: Although the guidebook notes the rappels as 28-30m, many parties have found themselves 1-2m short of the next station when using a single 60m. | 190m, 6 | |||
5.10a | ★ Surprisingly Subsevere | 6 | |||
Crescent Towers | |||||
5.6 | ★★★ Lion's Way
A great first summit close to camp to get an understanding of the area. | 200m, 6 | |||
5.7 | ★★ Ears Between
Close to camp and often climbed on "rest days" or as an introduction to the area. The first two pitches are optional and can be avoided by following a long ramp starting much further left. If you are comfortable at the grade, the direct start is a much more enjoyable option.
Descent: Downclimb or do a short rappel to regain the ledge between the ears then head around the back of the eastern ear. Do two single rope rappels and follow the ridge to gain the Cressent-Eastpost col. FA: R. Lofthouse & CMC Party, 1968 | 300m, 8 | |||
5.10- | ★★★ Ears Between (Direct)
1
5.10-
60m
2
5.7
30m
3
5.8
50m
4
5.9
40m
5
5.8
55m
6
5.6
20m
The fantastic and highly recommended direct start variation to Ears Between.
FA: R. Lofthouse & CMC Party, 1968 | 260m, 6 | |||
Eastpost Spire | |||||
5.10- | ★★★ Classic Grit | 220m | |||
Howser Spire Massif North Howser Tower | |||||
5.8 A2 V | North-Northwest Face
FA: Campbell, Knowler & Zvemgrowski, 1967 | 800m | |||
5.7 A2 V | Northwest Buttress
FA: Beckey & Greenwood, 1963 | 1000m | |||
5.12 | Eye of Providence
FA: Mike Verwey & Jon Simms, 2012 | 910m, 34 | |||
5.11d A2 | All Along the Watchtower
FA: Ward Robinson & Jim Walseth, 1981 FFA: Topher Donahue & Kennan Harvey, 1996 | 910m, 34 | |||
5.12+ | Armageddon
FA: Mike Pennings & Jonathon Copp, 1999 FFA: Jesse Huey & Maury Birdwell, 2016 | 1100m, 34 | |||
5.9 A3 VI | Warrior
FA: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton, 1973 | 910m, 34 | |||
5.9 A3 VI | Young Warrior
FA: Dave Russel & Chris Harkness, 2006 | 910m | |||
5.10d VI | Dodging Deanna
FA: Nathan Macdonald & Tony Mclane, Jul 2014 | 850m, 18 | |||
5.12- A1 | Spicy Red Beans and Rice
FA: Cameron Tague & Eric Greene, 1997 | ||||
5.11- VI | The Seventh Rifle
FA: Chris Jones, Galen Rowell & Tony Qamar, 1971 | 910m, 30 | |||
5.11a VI | Under Fire
Link up of 'The Shooting Gallery', '7th Rifle' and 'Young Men on Fire' | 850m | |||
5.10 A2+ VI | The Shooting Gallery
FA: George & Synnott, 1971 | 34 | |||
5.11- A4 VI | Young Men on Fire
FA: Gore & Hollinger, 1994 | 34 | |||
5.11 A2 VI | Southwest Face
FA: Jones, Simpson & Woodcock, 1970 | 20 | |||
5.6 III | South Ridge
FA: Kain, Frind, MacCarthy & Vincent, 1916 | 200m | |||
5.4 III | North Ridge
FA: Austin, Bernays, McCarthy & Rupley, 1955 | 5 | |||
5.10 A3+ V | Fear and Desire
FA: Davis & Offenbacher, 1999 | 9 | |||
5.9 A2 V | Chocolate Fudge Brownie
FA: Isaac & Webster, 1999 | 10 | |||
5.11+ | Voodoo Chile
FA: Alik Berg & Uisdean Hawthorn, Aug 2020 | 500m | |||
5.11 C2 | The Simulator
FA: Dylan Johnson & Chad Kellogg, 2010 | 19 | |||
5.11+ | Hey Kool-Aid!
FA: Bruce Miller & Chris Weidner, 2005 | ||||
Howser Spire Massif South Howser Tower | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Beckey-Chouinard
This is a Bugaboos mega-classic that draws climbers from around the world and for obvious reasons. It's more than 2000' tall and has pitch after pitch of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing with short sections of 5.10 thrown in here and there for good measure. The elegant line follows a large buttress that soars up the full height of the west face. This is a full value route with excellent climbing, great position and spectacular views. Not to be missed.
From the top of the Gully make one rappel off a nest of slings and follow fourth and easy fifth class terrain to the true summit. To descend find the first rap anchor to the east of the summit and make 6 double rope rappels to the glacier. There are numerous rap anchors on the east face so keep an eye out and make sure your ropes reach to the glacier below the bergshrund on the last rap before you commit to it. Some parties put in a V-thread because their ropes didn't reach. | 1100m, 22 | |||
Pigeon Spire | |||||
5.4 | ★★ Pigeon Toe | 90m | |||
5.4 | ★★★ West Ridge
The west ridge of Pigeon Spire is a bugaboo classic, and you will be sure to meet other parties on route. The majority of parties choose to simul-climb the route as it is predominantly 4th class, with a handful of 5m 5.4 steps. Mountain boots are recommended for the B-S Col and Vowell Glacier, but once you are at the ridge you can swap to approach shoes to make the climbing easier. Follow the upper Vowell glacier to the toe of Pigeon Spire's west ridge, Just above the Pigeon-Howser Col. You can ditch your glacier gear, ice axes, and crampons here. Next scramble up the ridge, taking the path of least resistance. The majority of the time you will be on, or just below the ridge crest but never more than 5m away from it. From the first summit descent down 4th class slabs, the climb up to the second summit may appear steep at first, but quickly grows into a blocky nature and is never more than 4th class. A narrow section of the ridge is best done Au Cheval. From the second summit contour right and down a short 5th class crack system to a col with the main summit. Continue down and left under the main summit across icy or snow-covered ramps to a short blocky chimney. Scramble this then continue left either through a chimney or taking a short handrail on the outside of it. once at the end of the handrail follow broken cracks up to the main summit block. Descent Do two 30m raps from bolted stations off the main summit block down towards the icey ramps you scrambled across earlier. Then reverse the route you scrambled up, downclimbing where necessary. FA: Eaton Cromwell & Peter Kauffman, 1930 | 500m | |||
Lost Feather Pinnacle | |||||
5.11 A2 IV | Back At Bob’s
Named in memory of Bob Enagonio of Canmore, Alberta who perished on a ski traverse from Rogers Pass to the Bugaboos in May 2005. FA: Duncan Burke & Chris Weidner, 2005 | 7 |
Showing all 39 routes.