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Summary

Multiple cliffs and breakdown areas around Manitou Mountain near Calabogie Lake.

Description

Near the Calabogie Peaks ski resort, there are a multiple cliffs, The Main Cliff seeing the most traffic. The area is primarily granitic gneiss and decent rock. The Main Cliff has seen most development with a renaissance since 2010 after the NCC closed most of the climbing in the Gatineau Park.

The Main Cliff is a kilometre or longer continuous cliff generally ranging in height from 12m-25m. It runs perpendicular to the road, generally giving approach times in the 5-20 minute range along fairly easy hiking trails.

The Lake Cliff faces north east. It is mostly undeveloped with a smattering of moderate to very hard sport climbs and some older trad lines. The entire cliff face is on Crown Land.

Access issues

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. If you make a fire, keep it small and in a pit. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is on crown land however the property line (Land owned by Calabogie Peaks Resort) runs along the north west end of the cliff. Lot17 Con2 has been sold to a land developer. A significant amount of trees have been cleared through the entire lot. The property line backs onto crownland (Lot17 Con3) about 10 meters away from the base of the cliff and runs from Cubert though the lower end of the talus along the cliff. Some of the hiking trail goes straight through these (housing?) lots now. Unknown how the trail and easy access will develop seeing as the township just paved parking (spring 2020) and once the homes are built what kind of complains and sway they will have should Lake Cliff become more popular.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach

From Ottawa, take highway 17 west, then turn left onto county highway 508 (Calabogie road). Follow the 508 past Calabogie and along the shore of Calabogie lake.

Main Cliff and Boulders parking is just a big dirt shoulder. The bigger parking section is at

45°16'23.45"N 76°48'34.70"W

Which is 2.5 km past the Barrett Chute Road (last left turn before pull-off, the road that turns left just before the ski resort).

That will get you access to the top of the cliff. A 2 minute walk west on the road will reveal a slightly smaller dirt shoulder, that will get you access to the bottom of the cliff.

History

History timeline chart

The main cliff was first climbed in the late 70s through late 80s, then it dropped in popularity. A few routes near 2nd easy way down continued to be climbed, but the rest of the cliff was rarely visited.

Starting in 2010, when the NCC closed much of the Gatineau park to climbing, climbing at Calabogie started to revitalize, with the development of new routes, including a fair bit of bolting of anchors and the setting up of a lot of sport routes. This development has continued through, at least, 2011.

This may lead to a differentiation in grades, the old, trad, routes were graded "old school", while the newer routes seem to be being given more "modern" grades, possibly resulting in nearby routes with similar difficulty level easily varying by a couple grades.

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
 Bouldering,  Trad climbing and other styles
27
12
19m
8
155
3,412
15m
100
Calabogie Boulders boulder field
233
1,248
4m
77

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Activity

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