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Fixed Gear: Theft and Vandalism

Theft and Vandalism

There has been a recent spat of fixed gear being stolen and fixed lines being removed/destroyed. Treat ALL fixed gear and lines described here with suspicion. It may be absent. Currently all fixed lines and easy descents have been stolen and a few top anchors have been vandalized/stolen. Be prepared while climbing to encounter dangerous loose and missing gear.

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Created 7 weeks ago
6

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. There is currently an initiative with them to work out access liability issues. They're are very receptive to allowing climbing here but untill the lawyers and insurance matters have been settled the have stated that no climbing is to be done. The entirety of the developed cliff face is on their property.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

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Routes

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SDS, on arête. Head up along arête.

https://youtu.be/cPMZFBTidL0

SDS, left hand on one of the decent crimps, right hand on low jug/side pull. Head up on good rails/slopers.

SDS, both hands on great jug. Head up and right to good rail.

https://youtu.be/Cjaklms7f8k

FA: Jim Clark, 23 Apr

SDS, left hand on decent crimp-gaston, right hand on good crimp. Use awkward high right foot. Head up via arete and/or pinches to jug/rail above.

SDS as "Southward Expansion". Head left and up on jugs and slopers to the far corner. Top out at "Wilderness"

FA: Jim Clark, 23 Apr

SDS, left hand on obvious pocket jug, right hand on any of the bad crimps or underlings. Follow the lovely pockets and side pulls up.

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