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Great Roof Area

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 6

Seasonality

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Description

This is a breakdown talus area under Next Gen and Real Men. It features a large roof/cave area.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. There is currently an initiative with them to work out access liability issues. They're are very receptive to allowing climbing here but untill the lawyers and insurance matters have been settled the have stated that no climbing is to be done. The entirety of the developed cliff face is on their property.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Start on the good rail. Head left and join Great Roof to finish. Enjoy the foot jams and toe hooks.

Climbers right of Great Roof.

SDS on the good rail. Find your spot, get your heel up and fire for the top. One move wonder but what a lovely move.

FA: Jim Clark

Climbers right of Fire One

Layback up the left corner. Right arete of bolder is out.

FA: Jim Clark

Climb face, right side arete is in.

FA: Jim Clark

Behind Fire One.

SDS decent left hand sidepull. Fire up and right for sharp edge and find a way to top. Bad Landing. Est V7.

Behind Fire One.

SDS on the glory jugs with a great right heel. Fire out to the small, sloping crimp and then the decent sloper rail. Find a way to the top of the prow. Bad Landing. Est V5.

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