A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jim Clark Will Choq Dan sivret
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Great Roof Area / Just Eight More Inches 11 in Field
- 2. Index by grade
1. Great Roof Area 11 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 45.269945, -76.812197
description
This is a breakdown talus area under Next Gen and Real Men. It features a large roof/cave area.
access issues
Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.
HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!
Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.
Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)
https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/
Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".
Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. They accept no liability for any use of the area, use at your own risk.
Skywalk is entirely on crown land.
The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.
There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Trailside Arete
SDS arete. | V1 | ||||||
2 |
Silk Road
Start on lip under the Great Roof. Topout above Great Roof. Don't Fall. | V4 | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 | ★★ The Great Roof | V4 | ||||||
4 |
★★★ Lesser Roof
Start on the good rail. Head left and join Great Roof to finish. Enjoy the foot jams and toe hooks. | V3 | ||||||
5 |
★ Fire One
Climbers right of Great Roof. SDS on the good rail. Find your spot, get your heel up and fire for the top. One move wonder but what a lovely move. FA: Jim Clark | V2 | ||||||
6 |
★ Lean Right
Climbers right of Fire One Layback up the left corner. Right arete of bolder is out. FA: Jim Clark | V0 | ||||||
7 |
Go Right
Climb face, right side arete is in. FA: Jim Clark | VB | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Direct Hit
Behind Fire One. SDS decent left hand sidepull. Fire up and right for sharp edge and find a way to top. Bad Landing. Est V7. | |||||||
9 |
Just Eight More Inches / Just Eight More Inches, Boulder
SDS on the glory jugs with a great right heel. Fire out to the small, sloping crimp and then the decent sloper rail. Find a way to the top of the prow. Bad Landing. Est V5. Start on the rail and reach. Grade highly height dependent. FA: Ryan Kelly | V5/6 | ||||||
10 |
The Prow
Sit start on the obvious prow. | V2 | ||||||
11 |
Port
On the port side of the ship, start on the obvious slopers. | V1 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
VB | Go Right | ||||
V0 | ★ | Lean Right | |||
V1 | Port | ||||
Trailside Arete | |||||
V2 | ★ | Fire One | |||
The Prow | |||||
V3 | ★★★ | Lesser Roof | |||
V4 | Silk Road | ||||
★★ | The Great Roof | ||||
V5/6 | Just Eight More Inches | ||||
? | Direct Hit |