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BLDV

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Description

This was cleaned and obviously climbed before me. If anyone knows the proper name for this and the problems on it please updated/tell me.

A tallish white boulder. There are a few other small boulders around it that may provide short, low traverse problems of questionable enjoyment.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. There is currently an initiative with them to work out access liability issues. They're are very receptive to allowing climbing here but untill the lawyers and insurance matters have been settled the have stated that no climbing is to be done. The entirety of the developed cliff face is on their property.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

Approach

After the second cut log bridge head directly toward the main cliff (left). Boulder is about 50 feet from the path.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Find your way up on the razor blade crimps among all the crumbling mica on this technical slab.

Sit start, pinch the right arete. Work your way though up the overhanging face on thin crimps and the arete. Try not to bleed all over the problem.

Sit start on low on good sidepulls on the face and the left arete.

Sit start on vertical seem and arete. Follow horizontal crack up.

Sit start on good sidepull and left arete crimp. Bump and balance your way up.

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