Help

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

The end of the cliff closest to the road.

Has not yet enjoyed the renaissance of other sectors of the cliff, so full of old trad routes that are generally dirty, mossy, licheny, and often hard to find.

Watch out for poison ivy along cliff-base and approach trails to the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Calabogie

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. If you make a fire, keep it small and in a pit. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is on crown land however the property line (Land owned by Calabogie Peaks Resort) runs along the north west end of the cliff. Lot17 Con2 has been sold to a land developer. A significant amount of trees have been cleared through the entire lot. The property line backs onto crownland (Lot17 Con3) about 10 meters away from the base of the cliff and runs from Cubert though the lower end of the talus along the cliff. Some of the hiking trail goes straight through these (housing?) lots now. Unknown how the trail and easy access will develop seeing as the township just paved parking (spring 2020) and once the homes are built what kind of complains and sway they will have should Lake Cliff become more popular.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

Approach

Take the lower path, and watch for the cliff to appear to the left.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Start at the very beginning of the cliff, where a large boulder has fallen off. Step up onto an undercut brown slab. Climb up to the roof, then move left onto a broken slab. Climb it easily to the top.

Where the trail first meets the cliff at the north end is a large boulder which recently (geologically speaking) fell off the cliff. Start just to the right of this boulder at a right-facing dihedral, initially using an obvious jam crack. Climb to the top of the dihedral (8m). Exit left, or face climb to finish at a clump of small birch trees. Cleaned as of May 2020. Dihedral sounds hollow so treat placements with suspicion.

Climb straight up the face midway between "Crack and Jugs" and "Another Stroll".

FA: P Low, P Allayn & D Buck, 1988

A variation to "An Easy Stroll". Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the column-like ridge. Exit as for "An Easy Stroll". Top anchor.

Start 6m to the right of "Crack and Jugs", at the base of a column-like ridge. Climb up the right side of the ridge in a wide dihedral to a small maple tree (8m). Face climb straight up to anchor.

Start on An Easy Stroll. Before the roof, traverse left and finish on Hump Day using the right facing dihedral for gear placement.

Start as "Hump Day". At the roof, head straight though on undercling and good sidepulls. Once on the slab above traverse left to anchors.

Immediately right of And Easy Stroll. Stay out of the dihedrals on both sides. Good sidepulls and good but thin crimps to the third bolt. Head right on balancy moves to easier interesting climbing. Top is a bit run out but takes cams. 5.6 if you use the dihedrals.

FA: Jim Clark, 22 May 2020

Start 2m right of "An Easy Stroll", 1m to the left of an obvious sloping roof. Move up to a V-notch, then past an overhang and up a small right-facing easy-angled dihedral to the top.

Climb through the obvious break in the overhangs 3m right of "The Go Between", then straight to the top.

An obscure line, but more interesting than it looks. To the right of "An Easy Stroll" is an obvious roof. Start at the right end of this roof, immediately right of "One Over". Step up onto a small slab just off the ground and climb it to near its right end. Pull directly up and over a small overhang. Continue up, passing over several very small overhangs, then straight up the face to the top.

Start under the first bolt. Use hidden small crimps and sidepulls to gain the second bolt though an interesting sequence then proceeded through the easier (5.6) mini-roof tiers trending left. Slabby top joins Fallus at last mini-roof. Stick clip recommended -- crux is very low and clipping hold for first bolt is bad for grade.

FA: Jim Clark

Stand up on the detached triangular block to the right of fallus. Mantle into the gully then sright onto the face and up. Protection tenuous in the middle. Maybe a star if it was clean.

FA probably not me. Its a fairly obvious line that has likely seen previous climbs.

Warning Rock: There were a few loose rocks before, there might still be a small amount of choss just because it's new :)

Follow the line of bolts though the burly overhanging start on some hidden holds into a precarious mantle. Pull though the juggy roof into some thin cracks. Cruze the slab to the top. First bolt is a difficult clip, particularly if short, stick clip advised.

FA: Jim Clark, 23 Oct

Look for a 6m long elongated boulder at the base of the cliff, with two cedar trees growing on top. Start directly behind the right (now dead) cedar tree. Face climb straight up 6m to a small overhang. A tricky move on good holds allows one to pull over the overhang moving slightly left. Then easy climbing to the top, now with a bolted anchor.

Cedar Hollow has been cleaned & retro-bolted (3 bolts), with a plaque now labeling it as "Breakfast in Vienna, 5.9 T".

FA: D Buck & P Low, 1985

Just right of Breakfast is a second bolted line with a plaque.

Bolted to through bulge and roof; easy (5.5ish) gear protected slab above to anchors -- or run it out if you don't have gear.

Fa/developer unknown.

Start 4.5m right of Cedar Hollow. Follow a small gully up and slightly right from a clearing to an overhang. Proceed up to a pine tree, then up slabs to the top.

FA: M Buck & P Low, 1985

Start 10m right of 'Cedar Hollow', directly underneath the extreme left end of a long roof near the top of the cliff. Climb straight up on good holds to the base of an obvious vertical crack. Follow this to the roof and traverse slightly to the left to avoid the roof and continue to top.

FA: R Halka & L Yanosik, 1975

Climb the short dihedral to the roof. Escape roof to the right then trend left and up though the black water stain on pocket crimps into easy rails to the anchor.

A significantly harder variation goes 11+ if you pull directly though the roof at the first bolt and stay on the black water stain.

FA: Jim Clark, 9 Nov

A 10m wide slab above a high point in the lower trail, with an extensive scree field at its base, is easily climbed along its left edge.

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Activity

Check out what is happening in North End.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 中文