Routes in Calabogie for selected grade

Not a sport route! Recommend stick clipping first bolt. Start on the right side of this very distinct aréte, delicately dance to the left and up past another bolt. Step left into a small groove from which some stellar crack climbing starts. Follow the crack up and then left to finish on a pedestal, bolted anchor. Single rack.

Accessible from the top by lowering from the rap-in anchor (see decription for Termagant Dihedral) and aiming climbers left.

Work though low overhang bulge onto the ledge and work your way though the crimpy face and quartz filled crack.

Jam though the nice hand crack right of the overhanging bulge to gain the ledge. Work up the flake and crimps into easier ledges. Removal of a leaning flake has increased the difficulty of this route and made the moves above the ledge a bit sketchy. Another bolt may be added between 3 and 4 to make it safer.

Start left of "Make It So" under the bulbous small roof. Pull though decent holds onto featured slab. Joins "Make It So" at 3rd bolt. This climb is unsafe to bolt/lead as the entire bottom slab is hollow. Belay should stand as "Make It So" with a redirect though the second bolt to avoid line trap.

Easy slab climbing to the second bolt. Pull the crux bulge which is somewhat reachy onto easy ground to the top.

It is possible to bypass the crux of "Assimilation" by heading left early on large chalk covered holds and traversing a few meters off the bolt line before coming back to an awkward clip then heading left again and rejoining "Assimilation" above in the dihedral under the roof. The bypass is 5.8ish and has a nasty pendulum fall potential.

The bolt line right of "Moje Zlato", climb the face and over the small roof.

The historically run-out (though with a clean fall) finish has, apparently, now had a bolt installed to protect it, above the crack in which the (historical, optional) piece would have been placed.

(Finish was a bit run-out, but can be protected with an (optional) piece in the horizontal finger crack. The block below the crack is hollow and a fall on gear could dislodge it.)

Anchor is in a big detached block.

Start just left of Karma Points under the small roof. Head up to jug rail and pull directly though the roof onto the slab and up the slab. Finish on Karma Points at end of slab. Dihedral on right is completely out. Contrived eliminate. Has 2-3 great moves though the roof. Jug under roof on left is tempting, loose and not required as pinching the corner above is enough.

Shares Karma Points bolts. Suggest pre-cliping second bolt to avoid potentially serious swing.

Climbs up a short bit of slab to a vertical wall with green streaks and bolts. Up the face to a right facing corner/chimney right of a high roof, then finishes a bit left.

Try not to be lured off route by the chalk and crumbly jugs on the far left under the roof. Stay true to the bolt line for the full experience - and grade.

Climb the dihedral/crack system to the roof. Follow the crack though the roof and up.

Mixed climb. Interesting start into a well protected finger crack that spits you out onto a thin slab. Gear; #.5, #.75 and optionally a small TUC/X4 can probably go into the slab above the 3rd bolt and a #1 on the top out slab.

Start as Head Banger. At the first rail instead of going up though the rails escape left to arete. Gain the arete and rejoin Head Banger.

Start right and then go left to follow the feature. The bottom is the crux. Once past the third bolt, it's smooth sailing. Takes a # .75 in the horizontal after the 3rd bolt, or a couple pieces between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

Starts 2m right of Neat Cafe. Head up the crack to a low angle ramp then stroll up the jug haul above.

Climb the corner right of the bolted arete, to a steep finish.

Gear in the initial section is thin (assuming you avoid placing behind the detached looking pillar), though could be supplemented by borrowing a bolt or two from Arête.

It has a stone at the base labeling it "Dumbasser-ee 5.8 T", but if you head up this expecting a reasonable 5.8 trad climb, you will be unpleasantly surprised.

Start 5m left of "Live Rust".

Climb a short broken corner/bulge and step to the base of a thin ski tracks crack system. Follow the ski tracks up to a small birch tree on a broken ledge (13m). Move left along the ledge to a small overhanging dihedral (protected by a piton), which is climbed to the top. Alternatively, 2 bolts on the right of the dihedral can be used to climb to the top (Note: No additional anchor for this variation as of Nov. 2020)

The bolted line immediately right of the obvious “Offwidth Your Head” crack. Head up the face using the arete as needed. After the final crux, escape the blank face above and finish right of the anchor.

In spring of 2022, bolts were added to reach an existing anchor of unknown origin. Possible retro-bolting of a bold, undocumented trad line? If you like thin moves and runouts on small gear, this would make for a worthy greenpoint.

SDS left side. Hit the lip and topout.

SDS right of Dull Razor. Up to pinch and top out.