Routes in Calabogie for selected grade

Direct technical line up to anchors of From Kingston with Love. Looking for consensus on a letter grade.

This route has a bit of everything, with an outstanding view!

Stick clip a high first bolt and work through a techy slab boulder before you mantle onto the ledge. Climb through another crux to progressively easier climbing until you reach the no hands rest. Find the your way through the bulges to a pumpy crux where the anchor is in your face but you can’t clip it.

The ledges around the no hands rest are used by the falcons to clean their kills before feeding them to their young. In years where falcons are using the nest don’t be surprised if you’re climbing through the remains of their kills in fall.

Shares the first 6 bolts with Illuminati. After bolt 6 follow the diagonal crack up and left. Clip the first sleeve bolt (no nut/thread) and use some citizen science creativity to get through the crux. Power through the small holds and NASA propaganda to clip the anchor. Congratulations, the earth is still not flat.

For bonus points, at bolt 5 use the undercling/side pull out left to stay on the face.

Just right of Breakfast in Vienna is a second bolted line with a faded plaque.

A good candidate for your first 5.11

Originally put up as a rarely climbed mixed route, now retrobolted as sport in hopes it will see more traffic. Two new bolts have been added to replace the need for gear on the easy upper slab. If you wish to climb it in the original style do not use bolts 3 and 5.

Fa/developer unknown.

Between "Breakfast Cookie" and "Tipytoe" are a couple bolts, after the 2nd one the route heads up through a fairly substantial roof on gear.

A jagged overhanging crack with an offwidth start, just left of "Cream Puff". The bouldery moves leading to the 2nd gear placement can be a little balancy at best... Power through to the next bomber placement, and enjoy the bulge and slabby finish. Shares anchor with "Cream Puff".

Protection: 0.2 to #3 cams and small nuts.

Unknown sport route right of She Got Thrilled. Climbs slightly left of the bolt line to get the proposed grade (temp, 5.10d, 5.11a?).

Please update if you know the details.

Thin crimps and some arete compression gets you into the jugs under the roof. Traverse right under the roof until you can find a way up. Find holds on the bleak slab and make your way up onto good holds and easy climbing to the chains.

Sit start, pinch the right arete. Work your way though up the overhanging face on thin crimps and the arete. Try not to bleed all over the problem.

SDS matched in wide shelf in the overhang. Moove up the shallow corner and topout.

Small boulder just past Gatekeeper and before frigid cave. Sit start on the right side of the steep overhang and move up and left to top out.

Stiff for the grade, start low and follow crimps and rails to top.

See the beta here: https://youtu.be/1Hn-1I4SOoA

Start on the big ledge and dyno/deadpoint to the top of the boulder. One-move wonder.

Grade greatly varies on where you start, how you climb it and your height.

Start as per Mantling 201, but traverse the ledge and up through The Gate to top out

Starting on a juggy rail with large feet, either dyno to the top of the boulder or use the intermediate crimps on the right side, then bump to the top.

Start on the left side of the face, on two opposing sidepulls. Climb up the face to the jugs above the corner

Sit start for November Sunshine

Needs topo and description. See guidebook.

Needs topo and description. See guidebook.

Sit start on block under roof then move into Bolting on Lead

Go in small like cave left of Tsunami. Start standing with your hands on good ledge above head. Sit Start is around V5.

Sit start matched on the low sloping triangle. Top out above

Climb the blunt prow. A slightly harder extension to this starts on the lip to the right of Riptide

SDS, left hand on obvious pocket jug, right hand on any of the bad crimps or underlings. Follow the lovely pockets and side pulls up.

SDS on nice rail. Head left and up though small edge or slopers and fire for the jug-sidepull.

Climbers right of Great Roof.

SDS on the good rail. Find your spot, get your heel up and fire for the top. One move wonder but what a lovely move.

Sit start on the obvious prow.

Sit start on the sloping jugs in the middle of the curved face.

SDS on holds under the sharp jug. Up to lip and jug and topout.

SDS left of corner. Awkward.

SDS left hand on arete right on jug. Topout directly above.

Start on Dreamcatcher. Instead of going straight up on the jugs reach right into the sloping rails. Work right and topout.

Start on the big horizontal shelf/hold in the middle of the rock. Climb up through the vertical crack to top out.

Climb the featureful arete on the boulder to the right of To Boldly Go. Start low on a shelf, climb up and left using superb crimps. Mantle on the left side of the bulge.

On the same "Vulcan Slab" rock as Arie'mnu. Start with hands in small huecos and a good left foot. Climb the tallest part of the face on crystals and micro crimps.

Climb up the center of the slab, between Milky Way and Spiral Galaxy.

Just east of Portal, right side. SDS on right crimp and left on arete.

Just east of Portal, left side. SDS crimps left of arete.

SDS on triangle sidepull and low right crimp. Up though the small crimps. Hight dependent.

Crimps on the arete. Topout to the right.

SDS Left on sidepull right on crimp.

Sit start under under the corner on opposing sidepulls. Get into the bucket and join Goggles on the great pinch. Possible start further under the boulder?

Start on the great rail. Fire up to the jug and the horn and top out.

SDS on sidepull. Find a way though the roof.

SDS on sidepull. Head left to arete and up.

Start matched on the right angled sloping ledge with small feet spread wide. Move left to two crimps, and awkwardly press up towards the high crimp to top out.

Starts in a crack just right of Sugar and Spice. Move right at the first roof then traverse left under the second roof. Clip the last bolt and move right into the crack.

Shares a start with Theophany then climbs the left face of the arete. Find which tiny feet work for you and balance your way up. A gem for the technicians out there.

The first bolts a spinner and needs to be sawn off. Stick clip the second bolt for now.