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The Cave, Right

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 6

Seasonality

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Approach

The hike in is very nice, about 40 minutes to the Ravens Nest wall and the cave is about 15 minutes from there. A very gentle uphill walk the whole way, with a few creek crossings. The patch is the large cave, uphill from the creek and faces south. Walking up the first route you will come to is on your left, about 50m from the creek uphill and the main staging area is about 20m uphill from there.

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts in the dark corner, with your back facing the “Carnivore” – bolted on lead by Simon Parboosign, just prior to his tragic avalanche accident. Scott Milton cleaned it up and sent it naming it after Simon. It is a really good route to a very nasty boulder crux finish – kind of a 13a to a V8.

FA: scott milton, 2000

Project

This route is at the turning point of the cave, just where it turns right/east. It is the noticeable crack line that is almost fully horizontal. Probably the most distinctive 12/d-13a in the Rockies, simply because it’s like no other route. Full on roof crack climbing to a lip encounter, to a cruxy headwall – beauty!

FA: todd guyn, 1993

Climbs the first 4 bolts of the Carnivore, then breaks right out the belly of the roof for 4 bolts, and clips the anchors of Doppio & Black Coffee. Was a Project for over 10 years untill August 2016.

Set: jd Leblanc

FA: Alex Megos, 8 Aug 2016

Starts about 5m right of Carnivore – climb the faint overhanging crack/seam – pockets, slopey bucket and surprisingly hard for such a short route. It’s excellent – kind of nice to have the last bolt extended!

FA: jd leblanc

Climb the first 2 bolts of Guerilla Warfare, then head left and get ready, because it comes quick and stays on you to the anchor! Superb route – crimpy and then you get the burl finish of Doppio.

FA: Jd Leblanc, 1994

The warm-up and yes it really is 5.12 and you’ll realize it pretty darn quick. Excellent climbing on jugs with big deadpoints and a nice balancey sloper crux!

FA: jon jones, 1993

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