There is a small pool of fresh running spring water located at the base of the cliff. This is roughly the middle of this area.

Access issues inherited from Devil's Glen

Climbing is not officially allowed in the Devils Glen park, although it is tolerated. This is currently up for review and the behavior of climbers now has the potential to permanently close or open this crag for the future. Please bear this in mind: keep a low profile, practice Leave No Trace and follow the guidelines below with regard to parking and trail access.

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).


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Grade Route

First bolt boulder problem leads to laybacking and ledges. Tricky, perhaps dynamic for some, roof sequence at the end adds for a nice sting.

Located 15m left of Elzinga's Corner

FA: John Kaandorp & Steve DeMaio

Retro bolted 2020-2021?

FA: Steve DeMaio & Rick Susgin

Climbs the large left facing corner located about 15m left of the spring. Great continuous crack climbing which leads over a tree to a two bolt anchor with rap rings.

FA: Jim Elzinga & Judy X

A retrobolted trad route which climbs the face to the right of 'Elzingas Corner'

FA: Dave Georger

Start right of 'Oliver North Face' by pulling over the roof. Traverse right to climb the arete. A stick clip is highly recommended for the first bolt. Shares anchors with 'The Left Hand of Memnoch'.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz

Start in the corner to the right of 'Beware the Ginsue'. Climb up and traverse left, then follow the bolts to the top. Shares anchors with 'Beware the Ginsue'.

Made harder by hold breakage 2016/2018. 5.11b/c from updated guidebook

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz

FA: Steve DeMaio & Rick Susgin

Climbs the crack above the spring.

FA: Steve DeMaio & John Kaandorp

Starts just right of 'Spring Cleaning'

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz

FA: Dustin Curtis

Starts 3m left(right?) of 'Nutcracker'.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz


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