Access issues inherited from Devil's Glen

Climbing is not officially allowed in the Devils Glen park, although it is tolerated. This is currently up for review and the behavior of climbers now has the potential to permanently close or open this crag for the future. Please bear this in mind: keep a low profile, practice Leave No Trace and follow the guidelines below with regard to parking and trail access.

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).


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Grade Route

Long and sustained vertical handcrack with several bulges for added spice. Make it to a nice ledge 40 feet up next a small coniferous trees and take a much earned rest, you will need it for the committing steep finish and mantel.

Note: The anchors will not be visible until you pull the last mantel. They are roughly 5 feet right of the main crack below.

Just left of Anvil's Away, a thin seam leads to the crux move: a right throw near the top of the bulge.

Most of the climb is fairly straight forward because the holds are large.

The crux is a huge underslap. If you are taller, there is a big move onto a good hold. If you are shorter, you may have to move your legs up while holding the underslap to reach the good hold.

A corner with two jammable cracks going up it. 5m right of "Tachniana"

Engaging from start to finish with some surprising moves - one of the best DG 5.11s.

FA: Randy Kielbasiewicz, 2011

Fantastically varied climb that features crimps, side pulls, highsteps, a crack and a mantel.

FA: Mike Smythe

Hand crack hiding behind a small cedar tree perched on a ledge. Follow the crack to the roof then traverse left to end on the same anchors as "The Poacher" 5.10c.

FA: John Kaandorp & Steve De Maio

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