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Access issues inherited from Devil's Glen

Climbing is not officially allowed in the Devils Glen park, although it is tolerated. This is currently up for review and the behavior of climbers now has the potential to permanently close or open this crag for the future. Please bear this in mind: keep a low profile, practice Leave No Trace and follow the guidelines below with regard to parking and trail access.

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

Routes

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Grade Route

Climbs the right-facing corner with the beautiful hand crack. Excellent protection, larger pro recommended. Considered one of the best crack climbs (of its grade) in Ontario.

FA: Steve DeMaio & John Kaandorp

7m right of "Nutcracker".

8m right of Nutcracker.

7m right of Sunday Safari

Climb a chimney behind a cedar tree.

Starts around the corner a couple meters left of an (obvious) orange wall. Start on the stack of cheater stones. Great long route.

The holds and moves are there, finding them at 5.8 is the trick.

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