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Description

Hike past the Gully Area and the mossy boulders and you will encounter a tight canyon/gully that is seen on your left.

Access issues inherited from Devil's Glen

Climbing is not officially allowed in the Devils Glen park, although it is tolerated. This is currently up for review and the behavior of climbers now has the potential to permanently close or open this crag for the future. Please bear this in mind: keep a low profile, practice Leave No Trace and follow the guidelines below with regard to parking and trail access.

Ethic inherited from Beaver Valley

Leave no trace and tread lightly! Please refer to https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/climbers/getting-outside

Red tagged route: do not touch - route is a closed project and/or bolting is unfinished (i.e. dangerous).

Routes

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Grade Route

Slab style climb located just outside left of "The Tight Canyon".

The right facing corner at the back of the Tight canyon. Rappel rings at the top.

FA: Steve De Maio & Rick Susgin, 1984

The overhanging climb just to the right of Does She Go?

FA: Andrew Merringer, 2012

The route across from "....Kitchen Sink".

Climb by an arete, but wouldn't call it an arete climb.

There is a wall behind you so be careful if you whip.

To avoid swinging, it is recommended you clip into the second draw from the ground (ie skip the first draw) or unclip the first draw from the ground after you clip into the second draw.

By the second bolt there are rocks that look loose. They are fine to pull on, but make sure you double check by tapping the rocks.

There is a nice ledge right before the anchors.

FA: Mish, 2016

First bolted climb to the right of Mullicious just a few metres around the arete in the Tight Canyon. Use the wall behind to work your way up chimney-style.

Walking east, it is the third bolted route past the eastern Tight Canyon exit. Bouldery first few moves, then make your way up to a small ledge that hides the anchors.

To the right of Dirty But Fun, forgo the unusually low first bolt and stickclip into the second bolt.

Bolts right of Shibuya

Newly bolted route right of Kansai that starts in a short dihedral before continuing into several flakes and ledges in the same crack system. I have not confirmed the grade but was told 5.11a, feel free to update.

Situated between Kansai and Invasion (trad climb) - a couple of large prominent flakes will help you negotiate this route.

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Activity

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