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Summary

Cliff line along North shore of Utsingi Point north of the long sheltered bay.

Description

Long series of cliffs averaging 100-300' high. Lower section mostly chossy, best access is from above.

Access issues

Isolated area, can be reached by boat or float plane. Anchor on South side, in long sheltered bay.

Approach

Best to approach from Southern shore and hike across the narrow point to the Northern shore to reach the top of the cliff line. Hike is fairy clear, with sparse wooded ravines where the bugs are pretty bad.

Where to stay

Bring a tent.

Ethic

Pack out what you bring in. Area is pristine.

Routes

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Grade Route

Natural anchor. Comfortable route with good holds. Potential for chimney/off width climbing as there is a large section of cliff cracked off running next to the established route that could be exploited. Route is mossy, with a fair amount of loose rock as you top out.

Lower from the top to a nice ledge. About half way up the climb there is a fork where you can go left towards a bit of a chimney, which is a bit harder.

Great route with a long solid crack on the right and an arete on the left. The structure of the cliff line here gives you an exhilarating, exposed feel. Route has been bolted for lead with mid-point anchor bolts for a 2 pitch decent to the bottom. The lower section is fairly chossy though and not recommended for ascending.

Long almost continuous hand/finger crack. High quality route. Some loose rock towards the top, and light vegetation in some areas.

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