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Description

This is premier crag of the Bow Valley. Many test pieces. It is constantly changing and evolving so keep up to date here as all the guides books are useless now with so much new construction http://www.tabvar.org/node/242.

Approach

1.30hr but worth it. Best limestone in the Valley

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Offload at the midway anchor for Rozgrzewka.

A technical start to a hard to read roof encounter where you'll find the crux. Easy climbing above! Not an ideal warm up

A pretty strange route (you'll see)! Feels contrived. The only 5.10 at Atlantis wall

FA: Marc A

One of the best 13a's in the Rockies.

FA: Aaron P

Was 13a by the first ascent team, but was downgraded for poor reasons...cough*

Start on Bug’s life but Veer left at the rest. Multiple powerful and pumpy 5.12 moves all the way to the anchor.

FA: Derrk Galloway & Gery Un

An intro, short-lived boulder-problem, gains a no hands. Pumpy climbing to a long v4 Boulder up top. Claw to the chains!

FA: Aaron P, 2010

This outstanding, long pitch has multiple cruxes (5 or 6?) and a super pumpy ending with big lock offs on crimps and jugs! Start atop of a 2m high pillar. Hard for the grade= C L A S S IC

FA: Greg Tos

One of the best 5.11's in the Bow Valley lives here. Enjoy 6 mini 5.11 cruxes on route to the anchor with every single style of climbing. And yes the large roof is as pumpy as you imagine!

FA: Greg Tos

The left variation of Ffantom Love.

A very bouldery start off a undercling, gets you ready to attack the duelling sidepull rails. Compression is key! Don’t be too cocky, because up high lies a nice 12- redpoint Crux.

FA: Greg Tos

Either hate it or love it. A Powerful little fella!

This pump fest starts left of AYCE. Climb a 25m 12a into a decent rest then get ready to attack a hard pumpy boulder all the way to the chains. A 70m rope barely gets back to the ground

FA: Gerry Un

After a thin, reachy, powerful and technical crux down Low, enjoy really fun and pumpy climbing on mainly jugs.

FA: Derek galloway, 2010

Continue past the first anchor of All You Can Eat to a powerful mono crux and roof encounter. Sustained climbing leads to anchors high on the wall.

FA: Evan Hau, 2015

A link up of the most natural line through this section of the wall. Climb Atlantis for the first 4 bolts, clip the variation bolt left and start jumping between jugs on All You Can Eat for the very pumpy finish.

The route that started it all.

A super funky sequence into the huge corner and a big move out gets the pump going. Pumpy climbing above with a last hard move before the anchors. Classic

Mega pumper. One of the best for the grade in the valley!

Bow Valley Sport guide shows an anchor lower on this line, Runaway Lane 11d. It has been removed.

The dramatic looking fin coming out of the cave ledge. The crux comes down low but the rest is no gimmie. Classic for the grade (13c to first anchor)

A steep start with powerful pulls gains a hard bulge and a rest. Recover and crank the technical crux that guards the chains.

FA: Greg tos

Romancing the Stone ext proj.(If you have climbed all the other lines on the wall you can give it a try, probably 13b or c, I might get around to it this year)

Set: greg tos

12a in the guide book but the route builder said it’s 12b due to it having 3 12a cruxes separates over 30ms.

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