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Eardley Escarpment

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 29
  • Ascents: 2,446
  • Content Quality: Medium
  • Aka: Gatineau Park
  • Aka: Gatineau Hills
  • Aka: Luskville

Seasonality

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Summary

Good climbing on solid granite close to Ottawa (Ontario) and Gatineau (Quebec).

Description

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

Most of the climbing in Gatineau Park is on the Eardley Escarpment, a granite feature rising along the north shore of the Ottawa River. There are a variety of scattered crags along this feature, mostly single-pitch climbing though with a few longer climbs.

Note: grades (except on sport climbs over about 5.10a) in this area tend to be "old-school".

Access issues

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

Varies from area to area -- 15 minutes to an hour or so.

Ethic

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades
Closed Buzz Rock Cliff
10
0
15m
Closed Erlkoenig Cliff
12
0
50m
106
752
13m
17
Closed The Cirque Area Cliff
14
4
40m
Home Cliff Cliff
49
538
23m
6
Closed The Gallery Cliff
13
2
Closed Bald Face Cliff
19
14
55m
Closed Cardinal Rock Cliff
3
0
30m
Closed Mont King Boulders Field
31
41
14
Closed Balcony Step Cliff
-
0
0
Closed Hidden Face Cliff
-
0
0
Closed Champlain Crags Cliff
-
0
0
Closed Western Slabs Sector
-
0
0
Closed Penguin Boulder Boulder
14
70
3m
7
Closed Le Bloc A Julien Boulder
42
227
20

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Activity

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