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Shpinava Wall 🚫

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 1

Climbing in this area is closed.

Seasonality

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Description

Left-most wall on the south (right) side of the Cwm.

This area closed by the NCC as of 2010.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

A short exposed route up the small face directly below a birch tree at the left end of the wall. 2 bolts and an anchor.

Closed
Closed

Follow the large right-facing corner to the roof. Pull the roof and climb past a bolt up the left edge of a big flake to anchors above the flake.

Closed
Closed
Closed

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