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Banana Republic 🚫

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 2

Climbing in this area is closed.

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Description

This cliff closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed
Closed

As you follow the arete up and leftwards from the nose, it is smooth until it encounters a small overhang with a crack below it. This climb starts below this break in the arete. It starts up a finger crack, the gets wider and steeper as it ascends, to a surprisingly steep lay-back section. Intimidating for a 5.4, but takes good gear all the way.

At the top, step right to a small triangular ledge. There are two old pitons slung as a rappel anchor. If belaying from here, backup gear in the crack up and left from the ledge might be a good idea.

FA: R Halka & H Norris, 1983

Closed

Climb a finger crack rightwards, then gain the arete. Climb its left side. Almost no protection once you gain the arete.

Closed
Closed

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