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Corruption Buttress 🚫

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 15

Climbing in this area is closed.

Seasonality

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Description

This are closed by the NCC as of fall 2010.

This is the prominent buttress just to the right of "White Wall". The first couple climbs face towards White Wall, and other continue around all three sides of the buttress.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

Approach as for "White Wall", then continue rightwards along the cliff.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Climb the wide crack to bolt anchors on the right.

Closed

Climb the face and cracks right of "Morning Crack". Can either finish with a step-right and mantel to the anchors for "Enron", or left to the anchors for "Morning Crack".

Closed

Climb the arete and mantel your way up to the bolt anchors. One cam after the first bolt is probably a good idea, and will protect you from a groundfall while clipping the 2nd bolt, but isn't absolutely necessary.

Closed

Climb up then left, following the obvious curving arch up to a big ledge. From the ledge, move up a into a scoop (crux), stepping left from a bolt, then up a crack/book to fixed anchors.

The crux is likely far harder than 5.9 -- but can be climbed A0 (clip bolt then pull).

Closed

Start up Corruption, but a couple meters off the ground, climb a thin crack rightwards through an overhang and up to trees.

FA: R Halka & G Lorose, 1985

Closed

Start below the corner/arete to the right of the obvious arching crack of "Corruption".

Climb up the arete and step right to the crack in the overhang. Pull over this and up the crack above to trees.

Gear is good, crux is hard for a 5.5.

FA: R Halka & H Norris, 1985

Closed

Around the right side of Corruption buttress is a short slab with a bolted anchor at the top. This route goes up the left side -- easy going to the one bolt, then a few moves.

Closed

Around the right side of Corruption buttress is a short slab with a bolted anchor at the top. This route goes up the right side, the side with 2 bolts.

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