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Climbing in this area is closed.

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Description

A set of boulders near the base of the Western Chalet Cliffs.

A topo is currently (April 2011) available from; http://www.drtopo.com/quebec/194

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Start with both hands in slot, then tricky move out right.

Closed

SDS in low slot, then up left on tiny crimps

Closed

Climb blank face.

Closed

SDS - Start on underclings and climb the short prow exiting right.

Closed

SDS - Squeeze the prow; heel-hooking left, then right.

Closed

SDS - Start both hands on the obvious hold, and go up the arête. Classic! Variation using just the arête without the starting jug.

Closed

Follow the crystal seam, or not.

Closed

Start on arête using the big undercling at shoulder height. Get onto the left side of the arête and directly up using small face holds.

Closed

Climb crimpers out to the arête, then dyno to sloper, Superclassic.

Closed

Start to the right of meditation on a blocky hold and traverse left into meditation.

Closed

SDS. Right and left on hand in two pockets. Up to the lip. Traverse and top out left.

Closed
Closed

SDS on small boulder traverse right on the lip and top out.

Closed

Lip traverse left to right. Scary top out; exiting onto lower boulder is perfectly acceptable.

Closed

SDS - Lip traverse. Exit over boulders or continue left. Way harder when it's hot.

Closed

One looong deadpoint. Not hard, just tricky. (Editor's note: O.K. muscles.) www.ahimsa.com

Closed

Start with both hands and heel hook on jug underneath roof. Climb up and left.

Closed

Start left hand low on arête, right hand on tiny crimp (red dots). Climb the arête.

Closed

Boulder left of Red Code. Start high on the arete on an opposite rail. Lower start possible.

Closed

Proud line. Follow the obvious seam up the center of the boulder. Has been done in a day from the stand start but not from the lower which shouldn't add to the grade.

Closed

Same start as Cirque Shreiner, but traverse left along horizontal seam to finish on Quatros Hombres.

Closed

Start with both hands in left leaning slot, then up to small, sharp holds.

Closed

Start on small holds under roof, move to boulder on the left then up

Closed

Start on holds under roof, then big move to lip and out on jugs

Closed

SDS start in slot, then move left and use the many holds and lip to top out, or straight up

Closed

Start on hold at waist level on right side of boulder. Traverse left on the seam without using lip until the end

Closed

Climb the obvious crack

Activity

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