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Square Buttress 🚫

Climbing in this area is closed.

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Description

The clear, right-facing square buttress in the line of relief that contains Ron & John cliffs. This has most of the good climbs.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Descent notes

There are bolted anchors with rap rings above the right face which are reachable from above, or one can (carefully) scramble down the more broken (4th class) area to the left of the left face. (Which can, also, be scrambled up to set top-rope anchors.)

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Routes

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Closed

The obivous chimney/crack on the side of the buttress facing the Ottawa river.

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A direct start to Here Today. Start at the bottom of the steep arete, which is followed all the way to the top. Thin, scarce protection. Get a spot at the start.

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Start up "Fire Free", traverse across to the arete, then finish up the arete.

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The obvious clean crack on the side of the buttress facing the gully.

Finishes on a two-bolt (with rap rings) anchor shared with "Johnny Rock".

Closed

The left-curving thin crack 2m to the right of "Fire Free", all the way to the top.

Finishes on a 2-bolt (with rap rings) anchor shared with "Fire Free".

Closed

The irregular crack 3m right of Johnny Rock.

Ends in a two-bolt anchor with rap rings.

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