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Bird's Nest Buttress 🚫

  • Grade context: US

Climbing in this area is closed.

4
YDS

Description

An impressive buttress with large roofs and numerous cracks. The main feature is a huge roof at the very base of the cliff.

Raven's have been known to nest here, and the cliff should be avoided during nesting season (early March to late August).

This area has been closed by the NCC since 2005.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Make your way up a crack through the left end of the roof. Truly, truly gnarly! Pass the second roof to the left via a small notch left again. Large slinged pine tree at the top.

Closed

Start at the lip of the overhang at the obvious crack in the middle of the roof. Reach the first hold (step on a stone if necessary), and pull your way up to establish your feet on the face. Truly radical. (The crack on the roof at the bottom has been climbed on aid.)

Closed

Start at the right end of the roof. Make some steep moves to reach a wide crack leading up to another roof. Skirt the roof to the left following a crack to a ledge (huge nest) and to the large slinged pine tree at the top.

Closed

Start at a small left-facing corner. Climb this to the vegetated ledge. Move up underneath a roof, then go left and up past the overhang. Follow a thin crack above the overhang until it becomes imperative to join Rock Heads (at the nest) for the last few moves.

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Tue 25 Apr
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