Photos
Help

Upper Slabs (right part) 🚫

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 2

Climbing in this area is closed.

3
YDS

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

This section of three routes is found on a clean part of the slab about 100m east (above and behind) Shpinava Wall.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
Closed

Climb up the slab staying left of the flake crack past three bolts to an easier section. Climb through a steeper bulge above this and past two more bolts all the way to top anchors. Two rappels may be needed to come back down. Rappel anchors on the ledge at mid-height.

Closed

Up the middle of the slab, directly beneath a cedar tree. Small crystals, tricky footwork.

Closed

The right side of the slab. Successive small ledges, delicate moves. Belay at the top of Primordial Soup.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Mon 24 Apr
Check out what is happening in Upper Slabs (right part).

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文