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Description

A rounded slabby face with several cracks up it. This has several easy trad routes that take protection easily and is often the place people come to learn trad in the area.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

The main trail reaches Cave/Spindrift walls, continue around past Reaper buttress and then up about 2m onto a ledge which is the base of North Wall. 45°32'18.85"N, 76° 0'4.01"W

Descent notes

Down climb possible to left of cliff, but forbidden by NCC. Rappel from bolts at top of Route A/B/C.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Routes

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Grade Route

The left most crack on North Wall, and a large one. It tends to be quite dirty as well. Not often climbed, and without anchors at the top.

FA: Y Troutet & S Villeneuve, 1999

Start up as per The Canopy, and about 1/2 way branch right and climb up the corner. Also tends to be dirty.

Start at the same place as The Canopy - on the left side of the flake near the base of the cliff. Do a rising traverse rightwards following the the obvious long diagonal crack.

FA: M Fournier & S Montgomery, 1989

Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top.

FA: Mark Duval, 1970

Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors.

Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead.

Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors.

Even further up and right, there is another crack angling slightly right as it goes up past a tree. Not often climbed.

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Activity

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