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Description

The buttress down and around the corner from Spindrift Wall.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the shallow dihedral and face left of Mr Toady's Dihdral to the top, then traverse to its anchors.

FA:

The obvious short dihedral. Anchors.

The first bolt really belongs to "Krispy Kreme", and there's good gear at the start, so no need to clip that bolt.

Steeper than it looks.

FA: R Halka & J Cotter, 1983

Climb the arete just to the right of Mr Toady's Dihedral.

Start below a smooth overhanging wall that is split by a thin crack, with a right-ascending ramp at the bottom.

Warning: ground-fall potential clipping 2nd bolt -- don't miss the clip.

FA: S Adcock & J Cotter, 1983

Climb the wall to the right of The Reaper, going over a small overhang above a small dihedral. Lots of jugs, but bad pro for the upper half. (PG)

FA: R Halka & J Cotter, 1983

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