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Description

A tall (25m) slabby cliff, water-stained black in places. Has several easy and closely bolted routes on it -- making it a good place to learn or do someone's first sport climbs.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

Crag is 45°32'19.40"N, 76° 0'2.32"W

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The left-most bolt line on Spindrift wall. Opening moves to first bolt are a bit intimidating (consider a stick-clip), but real crux is when the route gets thin between bolts 2 and 3.

FA: 2006

Start on the crack between Bolt Line #1 and Ground Zero. Follow this crack until it peters out, then straight towards the top. Either top-out, or traverse left to the anchors on "Bolt Route 1".

This was originally graded 5.1 (Climbing on the Eardley Escarpment, Yann Troutet), but it is defintely no easier than "Ground Zero" or "Bolt Line 3".

FA: Adam Christie & Susan Christie, 1984

The middle bolt line up the cliff.

Formerly an X trad route, now a very closely bolted sport route. This is a good lead for a beginning lead climber.

FA: M Edwards & PK Leugn, 1983

A couple meters left of "Bolt Line 3" is a small right-facing corner with a crack at the back. Start up this corner following it until it peters out, then angle gently up and left as gear allows. Finish by stepping left onto the ledge just below the anchors for "Ground Zero", pull up and right, then finish at the "Ground Zero" anchors.

(This climb is not described in a guide book from 2001 (which references works back to 1991), nor in more recent books/updates. It seems likely it has been climbed at some point in the last 30+ years of climbing on the escarpment, though the state of the moss and dirt in the cracks suggests not recently.)

The 3rd bolt line on Spindrift Wall. Climb the face just outside the corner that is Arachnophobia.

Start in the mouth of the large cave, about 2m left of the jumble of rocks. Follow the obvious zig-zag crack under large solid flakes until it ends. At some point move left onto the main face, and continue up towards the cedar tree at the top of the cliff, stepping left right at the end to use the anchors for Bolt Line #3.

FA: G Larose & R Halka, 1983

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