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Description

The short wall to the right of the cave.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Routes

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Grade Route

A real classic. Climb the overhanging arete up the right side of the cave, then up onto the face and to the anchors.

FA: P Chedore, 1994

Climb up a thin crack and then move right to a bolt. Climb up past another bolt to the anchors.

FA: J Cotter & R Halka, 1983

The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors.

The grade has inspired much debate.

FA: J. Cotter & R. Halka, 1983

Climb the short face right of Neruda, following a small left-facing arch and pulling over this to the top. "Pro is scarce, scary, and scabrous." PG. Not often climbed.

FA: B Milko, P Gagnon & L Currie, 1993

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Activity

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