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CWM Boulders 🚫

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 2

Climbing in this area is closed.

10

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Description

A few boulder problems exist along the approach to the Western CWM.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

Approach the Western CWM Cliff. At the metal map / rope handrail look right.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Short and explosive. Start on 2 small crimps on a 50 degree wall and dyno to a very slopey and hard to stick topout. The footholds on this problem are just horrible. You have to generate lots of power to reach the top by smearing on a 50 degree wall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvt4SgBNTP4

FA: Yves Gravelle, 4 May 2013

Closed

Slab line in the middle of the boulder. Done many times in the past, but unnamed at the moment.

Closed

Right side of the boulder. Done many times in the past, but unnamed at the moment.

Closed

A high start possible from two holds in the crack. Crux is pulling off the ground. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rS9b0GNYjM

FA: Dave Heerema

Closed

Starts sitting on some terrible holds and does very difficult moves to join to the top.

Closed
Closed

Start very on the crack and climb for 8 feet and jump down V1/2 ?

Closed

Bottom rock is out. V7/8?

Closed

Start under the roof rock is in, use small crimp on the face to reach jug. Jump off grade to be confirmed

Closed

Grade to be confirmed. Using small crimp climb face

Activity

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