After the field move left , shortly after follow the stream up and left. You should reach main boulder shortly

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT. links to which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at:

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.


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Grade Route

FA: 2007

climb the corner

FA: 2008

this line is just left on the other face of this boulder.

FA: 2007

finish on duck soup. traverse left starting on other face. Make a long move to make the transition on to the other face (duck soup) top out.

FA: 2009


air force one is very beta intensive to get the grade (see photo) youhave to get pocket with right hand and jump up and left to slopper and top out. video for Beta (02:25)

FA: yves Gravelle, 2008

same start but instead of getting pocket with right hand get it with left hand. some small crimp along the way for right hand and same top out as air force one.

FA: 2008

Similar to Air Force One Direct but uses holds a little further right, same for the dyno to the lip.

climb right arete


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