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Description

The "Left Twin" of the twin ribs.

Note: climbs on this cliff are described right-to-left.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Paulina Sleeman & Kelly Fleck, 2006

Start off the ground not the boulder for full value. (Make sure your belayer is paying attention between 2nd and 3rd bolt)

FA: Paulina Sleeman, 2007

FA: Kelly Fleck, 2006

Bolts and gear. Face climb to an obvious roof crack.

FA: Kelly Fleck, 2006

7 bolts. Go direct through the roof. Roof has a glue in bolt.

FA: Kelly Fleck, 2007

Right of Big Joe, Climb the first 3 bolts of the project line to finish on the anchors of Diddler in the Roof. Starting hold is high (7 feet?), Hard boulder problem to start. Crimpy

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

Right of Big Joe! High starting hold (7 feet?) PROJECT

Short and Powerful

FA: Jenny Campton, 2007

Shares first bolt of Big Joe and then goes left.

FA: Félicien Roy, 6 Sep 2019

Really nice boulder problem crux! (you can link up the start of Original route and the end of this one for a nice 5.10b)

FA: Kelly Fleck, 2007

FA: P Delaney

Classic line but stick clip to second bolt to avoid a bad fall!

FA: Paulina Sleeman, 2007

Climb on vertical wall to spicy finish

FA: Louis Rainville, 2008

climb to the top of the wall

Short cruxy, powerful Short beta video if needed

https://youtu.be/SPLzu0YqvzA

FA: Andrea Diaz, 2007

climb to the top of the wall maybe 5.14

Can you say "Dyno?"

FA: Christine Jamieson, 2007

Stellar roof crack!

FA: Michelle Birch, 2007

Very easy climbing to a high first bolt (optional gear) leads to super cool campus moves across a steep wall. Ultra classic for the grade.

FA: Jenny Campton, 2007

Pitch 1: Start underneath the right side of the large roof. Climb up a corner to a horizontal crack that takes you right; underneath an overhang, to a slab and anchors beside a pine tree.

Pitch 2: Climb behind the tree and follow the obvious leftward traverse, past a piton to the bottom of a large overhanging chimney and crack system. Belay.

Pitch 3: Climb the chimney and crack to pine trees at the top. Walk down to the left.

FA: R Halka, J Cotter & S Adcock

Bolts & gear. Start at a small overhang and climb the overhang then traverse left to some discontinuous cracks to a left facing corner, climb the corner to the top.

FA: D Peabody, 2007

Start Standing and climb up using the sweet feature finish on jugs to down climb to the left

Start Standing and climb up using the sweet feature finish on jugs to down climb to the left

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