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Eastern Block

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Description

A smooth rounded face to the right of the Twin Ribs, offering moderate to difficult slab climbing.

Access issues inherited from Eardley Escarpment

NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT IS NOT ALLOWED. DON'T DO IT.

https://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing links to https://ncc-website-2.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/Rock-Climbing-in-Gatineau-Park.pdf?mtime=20200113133647 which says, " Creating new routes is not permitted".

The Eardley Escarpment is contained in Gatineau Park, managed by the National Capital Commission (NCC). The NCC has closed climbing at all but a few of the crags. As of 2011, only Home Cliff (main corner area and rightwards to Piton Highway), Western Cwm (left or western side), the Twin Ribs (Copa Cabana and Down Under), and Eastern Block are open for climbing.

Cliff-top access is permitted only at Home Cliff and Western Cwm, at other crags climbs must be climbed from ground up.

The NCC, land-managers for Gatineau park, have a history of changing their web-page layout making direct-linking risky. As of fall 2018, their statement on climbing is available at: http://ncc-ccn.gc.ca/places/rock-climbing

While the origins of the closure was ecological sensitivity for the Eardley Escarpment (which is on the southern flank of the park), and originated as specific closures in that area, the current phrasing is a list of permitted areas within the park, meaning anything not in that list is, by omission, not open to climbing.

Approach

Follow Chemin de l'Hotel de Ville to the very end and park - leave room for other cars to turn around. Follow the path, keep left at the fork. Eventually it will curve slightly to the right, you will see two sets of wooden ladders, after that, stay to the right, and scramble up a rock slab which has a rope to help you get up.

Currently, the static rope that allowed easier access to Eastern Block up the steep rock slab has been removed.

Base of the crag is 45 31.889 N, 75 58.915 W.

PDF Trail Map to access Eastern Block: http://www.ncc-ccn.gc.ca/sites/default/files/pubs/NCC-CCN-Map-Carte-Official-Site-Officiel-Rock-Climbing-Escalade-Twin-Ribs-Eastern-Block-Aug-2010.pdf

Ethic inherited from Eardley Escarpment

No new development or bolting allowed. Strong tradition of leaving trad routes trad, even if badly run-out.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Bolt line left of "Ethics Police".

High first bolt, but could maybe take gear at start?

Beware the top half of this climb gets hard fast and it can be tempting to travel off route to the sides. Beware, if you travel too far this could result in a nasty swing if on lead.

Climb up over a section of fractured rock to smoother slab then a small oval cave. Continue up past the cave to the top anchors. (Rap rings.)

Very high first bolt -- gear nice at the start, but not needed thereafter. Can be climbed sport if you don't mind the high-ball start.

FA: S. Montgomery, 1992

Bolt route squeezed in between "Ethics Police" and "Mr Clean". Occasionally borrows holds from each.

Goes at about 5.9 if you wander around a bit. Direct finish, up the smooth slab, probably harder, maybe 5.11ish?

In the lower part of the cliff there is a nearly vertical about 9" wide pink dike that protrudes out from the rest of the cliff by an inch or two, and a bolt line running up it.

Mr Clean climbs the dike, and face above, to anchors.

FA: B. Winsborrow, 1992

Runs parallel to Mr Clean up the blank slab to its right.

FA: Peter Slivka, 1992

Warning Fixed Gear: Bolt 1 hanger loose

FA: K. Mkulash, 1993

FA: Peter Slivka, 1992

This wanders up the water streak on the right side of the cliff.

FA: B. Winsborrow, 1992

Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff.

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