Parking UTM 11U 0611200E 5658800N elevation 1700m
Park at the upper Grassi Lakes/EEOR parking area beside Whitemans Pond, 6.2km west on Three Sisters Parkway, from the intersection with Three Sisters Drive.
Walk back towards Canmore and follow the service road across the dam to its end. Head up 20m into the trees to the main trail. The Riders of Rohan mountain biking trail starts here. Follow the trail to the right 25m to the climbers trail. The best trail heads up and right staying mostly in the trees under Quick Release before traversing under the north face. There is a large cairn at the end of the face. The direct start begins here. For the normal route, continue across to a tree island and back up right to the base of the slab.
Base of Route UTM 11U 0612400E 5658200N Elevation 2100m
Recommended Rack C4 #.3 – 3, 8 Alpine Draws
Direct Start 5.7
Three new pitches were equipped by P Delaney.
From the cairn below the NE Face, continue 20m along the approach trail. Scramble up a shallow depression and back right 20m to 2 bolts below a black roof.
P1' 40m Climb through the roof using the right facing corner (bolt). Continue up slabs and scree covered ledges to a 2 bolt belay.
P2' 45m Climb the slab right of the station (3 bolts) to gain a right facing groove. Follow the groove up and left (2 bolts) to a 2 bolt belay on the crest.
P3' 30m Step right onto a pedestal (bolt) and continue up crest (bolt) to a 2 bolt belay. Scramble 25m to join the belay at the top of P3.
P1 40m Scramble slabs left of the left facing corner to a single bolt.
P2 30m Continue up slabs to a belay.
P3 45m Climb up the broad gully (bolt) and right to belay on the ridge. This is where the Direct Start meets the Regular Route.
P4 35m Climb the slab to a corner chimney. Exit right to a belay.
P5 30m Step right around a buttress to a right facing corner. Follow this corner to a belay.
P6 30m Climb a polished slab to a shallow chimney that leads to a belay ledge. (It is possible to combine P5 and P6, 60m.)
P7 50m “Changing Corners” Climb up and right over a series of corners and pinnacles (4 bolts). Climb up slight right of the 4th bolt (possible protection). Traverse right past another bolt and up to the original station.
Alternatively continue up right 5m to a belay on a broad ledge.
P8 50m “The Roof” Climb up an angular corner trending left (2 bolts). Either pull the yellow roof on the left (preferred due to rope drag and protecting the second) or head back right to the black roof (loose block in roof crack). The belay is 5m above the yellow roof.
P9 40m “Slab Traverse” Step up right (bolt). Traverse the slab and climb up to a rib. Climb around the rib to the right and up to a belay ledge.
P10 50m “Great Dihedral” Follow the dihedral up 20m. Blocky ledges lead up left then traverse back to the corner.
At 30m, follow another ledge left (bolt) to a polished groove and a belay ledge.
P11 45m Traverse back to the corner. Climb up to a loose gully/ledge. Cross the gully and continue up a water runnel to a belay on a ledge.
P12 30m Continue up the runnel to a ledge below the summit with a belay. Climb 5m up to the summit plateau.
Descend via the hikers' trail to the Goat Creek parking lot and walk back along the road to the parking.
FA: B. Greenwood, G. Prinz, D. Raubach & W Twelker, 1961